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CT-26 don't usually have the death whine that is associated with some turbocharger failures. So long as you don't have any mods that move FCO you'll be safe with the 57-trim. Whatever boost that FCO hits at you'll pretty much be safe to run just below.

Code 34 has no effect on timing. The only effect the 34 has is the temporary bucking you feel, after that the ECU continues to run as normal.

Lookup timing belt change, it's almost the exact same amount of work.

Personally I'd suspect the MSD wiring. I've never been impressed with MSD product quality. The NGK plugs suggested in the owners manual should be fine. What gap are you running?

This thread belongs in General Discussions, moved.

Does the sound go away when you push the clutch in?

Brake wear indicator maybe. Might be time for new pads.

AFPR and wideband are not required but highly recommended. It's a great idea to have some sort of tuning, and I would consider an EGT or wideband to be required for safe operation.

Sounds like boost leak. Blown turbo signs include blowing smoke at idle and during deceleration, also if it gets bad enough the motor will not want to rev but at that points it's extremely noticeable. Your turbo seals could be going out, but that's not going to account for the loss of boost...

1 more for headbolts into the block. Just don't try to reuse those headbolts later.

Yeah they started the color swapping thing somewhere around 89. Before that you just kind of have to guess. Luckily the wires usually maintain their basic shape. Start at the #1, look at the possible candidates and deduce which ones go where.

Don't underestimate the power of strange tools, like coathangers.

If the car runs then you're in the clear. Any of the things that bolt down there can be moved around with no problems. It kind of looks to me like your #3 is in the wrong place, but I haven't had any of the crap down there installed in my car in about 5 years.

The inserts look identical to the old style. Should fit.

If it wouldn't shift into 1st, 2nd or reverse that would be the fairly common shift fork failure.

Are you losing oil? Do a compression or leakdown test, that may provide some useful information. It could be the CPS o-ring leaking. That usually causes a little smoke at random. Look at the exhaust manifold carefully and look for different colored spots, like areas of black or white. Clean...

In addition to keeping heat where it belongs it also provides rust protection. You could wait and have it done but it's much easier to do before you install it. Heat wrap is a decent alternative, done properly it will hold heat in better. Done poorly it will cause premature excessive rust.

Typically a blown turbo smokes at idle and during deceleration. Are you losing oil? I don't find burning oil to be pungent, but exhaust fumes sure are.

ST, Tokico and Intrax are the only linears I can think of offhand. Tein EDFC is like TEMS on steroids. You really can't appreciate how much better the Tein system is until you've experienced it.