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Put a 19mm on a ratchet and try to turn the crank by hand. That will solve the question of whether your engine is frozen or not. Just turning on the radio and lights doesn't tell enough. Starter requires a certain voltage which is higher then the voltage the radio and lights need to work...

AFPR, drilled or remove j-tube, and 12v mod are not needed for your mod level. However the first 2 are definitely good insurance.

No you don't need them. The only temp sensor the car needs to run is the 2 wire for the ECU (green plug). Were you checking timing with the T and E1 terminals jumpered? What plugs and wires are you running and are they new? Did you swap the motor or just the electronics?

What kind of swap did you do (full swap, just ecu/manifold/turbo, just turbo)? Check engine error codes.

If you remove fuel via a tuning device like the S-AFC then you effectively raise FCO on cars like the 7M Supra where FCO is based on AFM signal (among other factors). This isn't safe to do normally, you must have some method of increasing fuel some other way.

Sounds like a boost leak to me. Pulling out 20% fuel on a CT-26 based turbo should net you well over 24psi. I can hit 24psi on my 57 trim pulling out only ~10% (and Lexus AFM).

should work

What pressure do you have on your high and low side?

Check engine error codes. If you get a TPS code then it's the TPS, otherwise it's the interface with the S-AFC.

Body harnesses are usually identical between N/A and turbo. It's the ECU harness that is different.

Any temperature spikes? Loss of coolant, oil? Check engine error codes. How many miles on the turbo? Does the smoke come out with the motor hot and cold?

The GReddy Profec e-01 will also log RPM, wideband, etc. Just another option.

IIRC the FCON has a 2 bar sensor. I think using the GM 3 bar would require some fine tuning, but for the most part they are universal (0-5v signal).

The 7M-GE doesn't have those two lines and it's thermostat housing is near identical design. I find it hard to believe that it's essential for flow. That said, if you do chose to blockoff the coolant rather then just bypass you will need something that can hold pressure. The turbo side won't...

Every auto parts store I've been to usually has a selection of various rubber plugs that will work just fine. As I recall, I connected the two stock lines together, rather then plugging both of them. Then I put plugs over the turbo side just to keep debris from getting in there.

It's not incredibly important that you have coolant running through the turbo. It's more of a safety feature for people who don't properly cool down their car with a turbo timer (or sit in the car for a couple minutes). I ran without coolant lines on my 57 trim CT-26 for a few months.

Stock pistons and rings will hold that power easily. Personally I'd chose stock over the eBay set.

Looking good Dirte.

90-94 Lexus 1UZ-FE V8 motors only as I recall.

Boost cut, basically an overboost code. You either have a boost controller/shim installed and you're running too much boost, or you have a boost leak.