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Boost leak http://www.ma70.com/bishop92t/techtips/boostleak.html

Check engine error codes Running rich - Boost leak No black smoke during acceleration - malfunctioning wastegate, ECU in limp mode, timing way off

This belongs in general as there is no tech question.

Check coolant via radiator, NOT via the overflow reservoir. The reservoir is not an accurate measurement of how much coolant is in your system, it's overflow for heat expansion only. Obviously only check the level in the radiator when the car is cold. It should be full to the brim. If you...

Most likely its the exhaust manifold to head. It's not a fun job to replace, so you might as well gear up to do a few other projects while you're in there. Replace the exhaust manifold to turbo gasket, the 2 oil gaskets and 1 water gasket on the turbo as well. EGR cooler is a possibility it's...

So long as your car isn't a California model you can remove the EGR with no engine codes. California models have an EGR exhaust gas temperature probe that the ECU checks. A rheostat (or resistor) in it's place can make the engine code go away and with no problems to the engine. I forget the...

Sounds like boost leak. There are other possibilities though. What were the last few things you worked on with the car, that might be a clue. Visually check the #1 intercooler hose off the bottom of the turbo and the 3000 pipe -> throttle body hoses. 99% of the time that is where the leak...

Auto wiring harness is different from 5spd. You can go auto to 5spd with no wiring troubles, but not the other way around. I'm pretty sure the driveshafts are different lengths.

ARP's will still be fine. Don't coat a new MHG. Get the head checked out just in case, it probably will be fine but I wouldnt chance it.

Hand tight is fine. It doesn't require a precise torque.

Yeah. I think most people are lucky to put down much over 300 with the stock CT, and the overbore isn't going to make that much of a difference IMO.

I'll be surprised if you put down more then 350 to the rear, good luck though :) Stock turbo just isn't very impressive. An upgraded CT-26 however, is definitely capable of over 400.

Electric fans do not work as well as the stock clutch fan. They may be sufficient for some people's cars, but for maximum cooling performance you should use a clutch fan setup (and make sure it's working properly).

Mine lasted a few months before blowing at 20psi. I was interested in finding out how much boost it could handle.

17.5 should be safe assuming you've got it tuned properly.

I ran 20psi on a stocker for a little while, never dyno'd though. I'd guess in the lower 300's. You're out of it's sweet spot by that point, power gains aren't that great.

Depends on the turbo. PSI is not a measurement of power or flow. Woah, deja vu

Depends on the turbo. PSI is not a measurement of power or flow.

If you still have the code you need to fix it. Either your TPS is bad, you didn't align it correctly (it's tricky your first time), or your wiring is bad.

TPS needs alignment usually with that code. It can have a pretty big effect on performance as well.