Yep, fake one is obvious as it's not real leather and the work is shoddy.
Also, leather gets shiny because it's like skin (because it is, duh). Clean it to open the pores (why it's shiny) and then moisturize it.
Only safe way to get around the issue, or use spacers.
Either that or have custom LCA's made, but don't fuck it up since LCA's are huge for a reason...
Timing gear is missing the front guide (i.e. you need a new one or your belt is going to wander and chew things up and get chewed up itself)
Also, our motors are non-interferance, so valve impacts won't happen if the timing belt were to snap.
Search nazis don't live here :)
FYI: there is ZERO gain in running the NA intake cam (exhaust cams are the same). It moves the power band down, which is bad since that's before the turbo spools...
Well, it's not a MAF, it's an AFM (yes there is a difference and it's important)
The 7M-GTE AFM electronics will work, but the housing is smaller than the 1UZ's. If you have the housing, swap electronics.
You know, I loved my DDP... I got really bored of it because I couldn't haul ass without alerting everyone within a mile :rofl:
Though scaring the shit out dumbass soccer moms driving slow and sloppy with the windows down was priceless...
FYI: I have one of the first chinese made DDP's, and...
Shutting this down for now. Feeler threads are OK, but once money gets involved it becomes either vendor or group buy activity and must go through the proper process.
Technicians can make money, but the industry is flooded with them. Most of the people that finish school go on to make $9 an hour at a lube place. Also, mom and pop shops are stronger than ever these days because of the economy. You also don't work your way up much in a shop, it's the...
A million times this.
Also, fel-pro set for the 7M is repackaged shit and a massive rip off. If you're not going OEM on gaskets, get a cheap one because it's the same damn thing (same shit paper EGR cooler gasket when the OEM one is a metallic gasket, same shit throttlebody gasket with the...
53138 and 53139 here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=5301&P=1
51456, 51448A, and 51449C here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=5301&P=1
There might be more, but that's what I could find with a quick look. Still not sure this is...
Common on worn out ball joints :( Many manufacturers have a torque spec the joint should achieve before moving, if it's below that spec, the joint should be replaced.
Also, only way I can think that using a jack to put load on it would be is if you tightened the bushing bolts at full droop...
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