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Ugh, such a rip... If you're willing to wait for them to get to you, you can get stuff like this direct from China for pennies on the dollar usually.

Wait... what? You are aware turbo technology is light years ahead of where they were back then, right?

Shifter extension housing or the motor mount brackets on backwards or something...

Depends on the damage. You can remove the bolts from the PP to flywheel and slide the PP back to expose the disk and get in there and pry it off. If it's really on there, pieces are going to be stuck to the flywheel and you'll probably have to replace parts...

Them, and I'm not sure they are interchangeable (i.e. if they will plug in). Not like you couldn't change the plug though...

Eh, people say that about my clutch...and I can hold my car on a hill with clutch/gas.

1UZ has a VERY expensive upgrade path if you want more power. It's also only 4 liters. An LS motor can be built over 8 liters if one has the money for it (realistically, it would be much smaller, but parts are still VERY VERY cheap and VERY VERY available compared to doing anything with the...

For starters, you'd basically be making a 6M, and it's not worth it, especially in a big fat MKIII. ITB's are also half of your budget in cost. Cams won't make enough difference, not to mention they don't make cams for the 5M. Not higher compression, especially with the lack of aftermarket...

89 had a better steering wheel, 91 had better wheels, 90 had the worst of both. NA MKIV goes for the prices you're asking. Hell man, look at this and figure out why you're wrong: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?175913-Rajunz-MKIII-Show-Car-15-000-Austin-Texas (it sold for...

A million times this. Hell, you can buy a setup that's plug and play to do all this (since it's required for doing HID setups, they're readily available)

Best writeup is in the TSRM. It's a bit harder to do than some others (Miata is the last one I did), but not really hard. You might have replace some parts though once you're in there (felt stops, rollers, etc).

Front suspension is an issue on them. If the parts are worn, you're going to spend a fortune fixing it as the parts aren't rebuildable and need to be replaced. Well, that was until the aftermarket got to it and made a MUCH cheaper option, but still... It's a Porsche, so yes it's going to be...

Heat = resistance = heat It's known as thermal runaway, and it's how fuses work. Hold a motor and don't let it move and it also pulls more power making heat...

Bzzz, wrong. Higher numerical numbers mean a smaller pinion which leads to easier failure. Our axles are stronger than the ones in the MKIV. They'll be fine. Failure is fairly common at high output levels, but it's from the crush sleeve being a completely shit design, but everyone does...

Doing it properly requires pretty much total disassembly of the door, but it's not really hard, just tedious. Cleaning and regreasing does amazing things for window regulators, but it's not always going to help (especially if parts are just plain broken/worn)

Possible, of course. Probable, no. Confirm with a test gauge.

For the love of all that is holy... I have to deal with this crap at work too. The ECU is telling you where to start looking with your troubleshooting. So the first thing everyone does? Goes and starts looking somewhere else... :3d_frown:

Retorquing is fine (and should be done anyway to be safe on a new HG install), it's the whole "I have a leaking gasket, should I retorque?" question that's a huge NO. Once the gasket moves out of place (this is why they leak/blow) nothing is going to make them seal. Definite 100% no on putting...

Winnar!