Search results

Side exits aren't easy as the frame is in the way. Dual out the back isn't hard if you don't have a factory gas tank...

Hmm, I had to look harder to find the info I had (had a book on it around here somewhere). Yeah, it's direct injected, but finicky. Also, the HP numbers back then are rated differently (done on an engine dyno without any accessories being driven by the motor, etc.) They only realistically put...

Worn bearings allowing the shaft to move.

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-paint-defender-spray-film.html

Eyelet bushing on a shock isn't bonded, so it's not that critical. Now the actual a-arm bushings...

If it's lowered, it's not by much. And the fly by wire system is extremely fast, so I'd say your issue is elsewhere.

Take the caliper off or you'll be hanging the spindle off the brake line (not good)

The advantage to the actual tool (slide hammer with correct size collet) is that the pins can be reused as it doesn't damage them. In the case of the block, there's a quicker way, but not sure if it's advised... You can knock them all the way through into the coolant passage and fish them out...

Have to pull the upper arm bolt, and no the subframe absolutely does NOT need to be dropped... :3d_frown: Start here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FA&P=17

There's better options these days. 3M has a black or clear spray on product that can be peeled off that acts as a bra. There's also films that can be applied. On the case of an OEM bra, they're real leather IIRC and should be treated as such, or they'll shrink (simply being old as dirt at...

They're stable as a rock compared to a jeep though :) Going with a wider wheel and tire package helps too, but I dunno about your laws there and if the tire HAS to be inside the fender...

So...wait...you like being ripped off and lied to?

The issue with the "when it blows I'll rebuild" mentality is that if it blows, it's going to overheat and anneal the head. Good heads are getting rare and expensive, so it's dumb to cut corners in the first place...

Moved :) Also, the lines are thin wall anyway, there wouldn't really be any "wear" on them unless it's corrosion, which in that case the tank would be just as badly rusted. It would be a lot of work for little gain. Now the soft lines are a different story as they'll dry rot, so not a bad...

Depending on the state, rebuilt titles can be different than salvage titles. Namely, it's certified to be 100% repaired. Look at what was actually repaired (as it appears he had it done, get receipts and ask the shop that did it) I'd pick the car up if it was me if the repairs were to my...

Eh, depends on what his actual goals are and how much he wants to spend. R154 isn't weak by any means it's just some people abuse them...

Unless you plan on boosting the motor, I wouldn't use GTE pistons simply because you'll lose power. It would be a waste of forged pistons... Also, GE blocks are missing oil squirters, oil feed and drain for turbo, and the 2 knock sensor locations (there's on on a GE and IIRC it's on a third...

If it took you that long to break a W58, I doubt you'll eat an R154...

Don't know your history well, do you? :) While copper it a better conductor, it also wears fast. In fact, the Wright Flyer used platinum for the spark electrodes because of that very issue. Iridiums are great, if the car is designed for it (they easily go 100K miles on modern cars that are...

It's fiberglass, get it fixed.