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110v welders suck...I have one :rofl:

Sorry Jeff, was going from memory :) If you're dead set on the sway bars being parallel to the ground, they won't swap. If the car is lowered they'd work, but you'd still have issues with the front. I might take a look at the miata and see if they'll work...

It's a myth that EGR causes #6 to blow as there is extra cooling capacity to the back of the head specificly for that function.

USDM ECU is tuned for the EGR to be there, and yes, you'll fail emissions without it.

No way the NA ECU is going to function under boost well. There's a reason Toyota had 2 different electronics setups... Also, a standalone works on anything.

Get a good set of allen wrenches, never had an issue ;) Plus, they're not supposed to spin too easily, if they do, they're worn out. In fact, mazda uses similar endlinks and even has a test for them. If the torque needed to tur them is below a certain spec, they're replaced, same for the ball...

Yep, and that extra processing power also allows the ECU to do more by itself instead of set tables. Of course that adds cost that most people here don't want to spend... It also helps to learn how to tune and do it yourself. Full standalone gives you tuning abilities that a piggyback could...

Stock is crimped and tends to not back out. Best if going to be wired though.

No, they won't swap. The angles are different (ends on the back are 180 degrees form eachother, the ones one the front are more like 90) Keep in mind I'm going by memory, but I'm pretty sure that's the case based off the EPC diagrams as well. Why are you asking Jeff?

If it's a mountain bike, it's going to be dirty...

What what? 7M sounds better :p

BS, modern standalaones have much more processing power than the stock ECU. Once tuned, they can be much better than the stock ECU (keep in mind this takes a lot of time and tweaking)

I've seen roof mounts and of course hitch mounts (yes they make hitches for our cars)

If you want more accurate and tunable, there's only one answer...

Up until a few years ago, it was pretty difficult to wire in a 2JZ as well. Regardless, with the dwindling supply of JDM front clips to do easy 1JZ installs for relatively cheap, it's usaully more cost effective to go 2JZGE-T on 7M-GTE electronics. Though I'm sure the 2JZ electronics are far...

The VVTi seems to be an annoying hurdle to get past, plus the block isn't as strong, so people tend not to go for them (as most people are going to boost a 2J)

Eh, stock gauge isn't bad, it's just terribly slow and probably out of spec from age.

Main reason 1.5JZ was used was to cheat the system in JDM land. Bigger engine without looking like a bigger engine.

Bigger turbo = more boost = more blowby = more need for PCV

Been the exact opposite for me...