Alright guys, I've search high and low on Google, SM, and SF. I'm looking to delete my cold start injector. I live in south Louisiana and it doesnt get colder that about 45 during the winter, so there's really no use in having it. Plus I think it was staying stuck open, because when I pulled my motor apart, the intake was soaked with fuel and it also wanted to diesel once I shut it off. What it the best way to go about doing this? Just disconnect the connector? Or would this throw a CEL? pinch off the fuel line maybe? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Cold start injector delete
- Thread starter EHumble
- Start date
Well, consider that "cold" really means anything where the coolant is not at operating temperature. Even on hot days, the engine is still "cold" when you start it. You will have some hard starts.
If I were to do this, I'd plug the line at the fuel rail, and cap the line on the injector itself. The line at the fuel rail is a banjo bolt, so I'd find a short metric thread bolt with the correct threads, and install with a copper washer. The other end is also a banjo bolt. I'd probably just cover the banjo fitting with a bunch of washers and re-install the bolt. Leave the injector int he manifold, and electrically connected. Then the ECU doesn't even know that it's gone (because it isn't -- it just doesn't have a fuel supply.)
If I were to do this, I'd plug the line at the fuel rail, and cap the line on the injector itself. The line at the fuel rail is a banjo bolt, so I'd find a short metric thread bolt with the correct threads, and install with a copper washer. The other end is also a banjo bolt. I'd probably just cover the banjo fitting with a bunch of washers and re-install the bolt. Leave the injector int he manifold, and electrically connected. Then the ECU doesn't even know that it's gone (because it isn't -- it just doesn't have a fuel supply.)
Well, I'd remove the line as I described above, since the OP believes that it leaks.
Seal off the fuel rail with a shorter bolt, because it's fuel, and I really don't want that leaking outside of the engine.
I'd still seal on the injector itself, since if it's leaking, it's a vacuum/boost leak. If, however the leak is the inside of a stack of washers, then I'm probably not concerned about it. Maybe I'd seal the stack of washers with some silicone or something, just to be sure.
Seal off the fuel rail with a shorter bolt, because it's fuel, and I really don't want that leaking outside of the engine.
I'd still seal on the injector itself, since if it's leaking, it's a vacuum/boost leak. If, however the leak is the inside of a stack of washers, then I'm probably not concerned about it. Maybe I'd seal the stack of washers with some silicone or something, just to be sure.
The temp you said is well under the temp the cold start injector is needed. If you're having issues with it (doubltful) replace it or have it cleaned.
EHumble;1930247 said:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf
Page 13 of 24 tells basic strategy concering coolant temperatures. The cold start injector is used when the coolant isn't even close to the desired enrichment during cranking.
I dunno why. There was a time when owner mayhem mattered because the cars were likely to get passed on but these days they're so old most are going to end up as scrap anyway. Besides, it's his property, to do with as he pleases.
ahh see i misunderstood the term 'cold start injector.' It completely flew over my head for some reason haha. but either way, I really dont know much about these early EFI engines. I'm better with newer stuff. how does the injector actually work, is it like a normal fuel injector with a simple solenoid type mechanism? and what gives it the commend to open?? Is it the coolant temp sensor?
The service manuals have all that information. Old or new all gasoline engines require cold start enrichment. It's puzzling you'd think an ambient of 45F would change that. Then again we have lots of people here who yank stuff off their cars without having a clue what it does.
