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Do you have an upgraded radiator in the car?

cock SUCKER my heater core that I beleived to be in good condition sprung a leak (well, probably leaked from the beginning as I just hooked up the vac line to the control valve). There is a slight chance that it is just the o-rings (as, like an idiot, I re-used old ones), but we'll see what...

I'm running the BIC recirculated ddp, a test pipe, and the HKS dragger. It is silent at idle and has a low rumble while driving. At cruise, it is relatively quiet (it just slightly drowns out the noise of the engine).

you need to pull the linkage off again and get it perfect. Unfortunately, it is a trial and error process. if you are off at all, the wipers won't return to bottom when off. with that said, mine still require some more adjustment...

I don't think this has all that much to do with the TB size as the AFM is still monitoring the amount of air drawn into the engine. My partial (low) throttle AFs never really get above 14.8:1.

get yourself a buddy and a video camera. Place the wideband near the S-AFC in monitor mode showing RPM (and whatever else you want) and go for a run while videotaping the gauges. after the run, review the video, and see where in the rpm range you are off target for AFRs. Adjust slightly and...

check my build thread in my signature. i bought new outer wheel wells (unfortunately no longer available from toyota iirc) and had two rust-free quarter panels cut from a car in the southern states. i then had everything welded up by a local body guy. you can probably get somebody to cut some...

looks pretty good to me...just refinish the bracket

Also, where did you route the line off your ISCV? It sounds like you have nothing routed to the intake tube. Unless you are running MAP, you will have problems introducing air after the MAF (both ISCV and PCV). The stock PCV and ISCV systems are not "air leaks". They are re-introduced after...

dumbo, please replace that stainless braided line from the FPR to the rail with a non-stainless line (nylon braid or pushlock). Hate to see another car burn from the FPR line wearing through the 12V alternator wire.

gasoline also works quite well for lubricating

hopefully you angled that q45 flange downward, because if you haven't, I have a feeling your TB is going to hit the hood when all is said and done.

that's a good point...I'll have to give that a go.

It is unlikely that I'll be getting it right on the first try so chances are I'll be doing more than one... I'm going to experiment with some set screws inserted into the stock q45 linkage to attempt to get a feel for the correct dimensions while the new arm is being made. Hopefully the new...

I'm quite choked since this was an OEM TB (although I suppose not meant for boost) I'm going to try using vacuum grease on the shaft O-rings and see if that helps.

Thats nasty! nice work.

I was wondering about that...I suppose you are right. At 15 psi, you could barely feel the leak putting your face up to the TB, so there's not a lot of volume lost there. Holy shit, the throttle plate howled like a motherfucker when pressurized!

Went out to street tune the car tonight. At the end of the first run, we blew off the coolant line that runs between the back of the head and the heater control valve (it may not have been tightened down that well...another reason not to use worm clamps). Now my formerly clean engine bay is...

So I finally got around to doing a pressure test of my intake system. It turns out that my Q45 throttle body is leaking from the shaft seal. Has anybody else experienced and managed to fix this, or do I get a new (used) TB and hope for the best? If I pushed the throttle arm toward the TB, the...

you get what you pay for