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there is a thread in the technical section about this...it sort of ended up going to hell though. Also, annealing has little to do with atomic bonds. It is the elevated temperature re-organization of a the grain structure to a lower energy state. In simplified terms, this reduces internal...

have you driven one? my 3+ takes considerably more effort to depress than a stock plate. It is also fairly evident that the plate has been disassembled, as there are missing assembly rivets, and no paint on the springs.

how many seconds elapse on the x scale on that graph? Looks like noise to me. You weren't monitoring your timing by any chance were you?

If you want to make things look stock, get yourself a fuse box out of a wrecked car. One of the fuse panels is removable and can be inserted into the open spot in our fuse box with a little bit of work. (i have a picture showing this in my build thread in my signature)

I'm glad there are arizona cars to canibalize for their rear quarters...

If you haven't noticed, HKS really only produces parts for semi-current (newer than 10 years old) vehicles. Our car no longer falls into that category.

+ 1 for randy's (BIC) ddp. Great quality and fitment. NO modification necessary for installation, which can't be said about some of the cheaper, knock-off options.

i would have cut a lot more rust out than that....like, to the bare, unaffected metal.

Nothing is too tight when you've got a dremel. 52mm would look way too small IMO.

Dremel, precision soldering iron, TSRM wiring diagrams, new bulb and holder (unless you want the tach to be half dark at night), as well as some black spray paint, methanol, and an additional gauge bezel to replace the first one I fucked up. Oh yeah, having a 13-way electrical connector...

WOW! (for those of you who didn't listen to adam sandler in the mid 90s, you won't understand)

Thats me. Those are the 60mm prosport premium peak/warn gauges. Took quite a bit of work to make them fit, but they work great.

to avoid destroying the mouns surrounding the camber bolt, get yourself a die grinder and carbide de-burring bit. Cut off all of the protruding bolt you can, and grind the camber bolt shank where it passes through the subframe. Grind until the suspension arm is freed. Removing the subframe...

Well, I tore the car apart today. All I can say is fuck. I dropped a ton of coolant - it soaked the carpet pad all the way to the rear of the passenger side of the car...this meant removing the seat and the carpet padding in addition to the dash and everything within. As far as the o-ring...

Either that or edilbrock gaskacinch for me. They do the job well even if your sealing surface is a bit rough

for those wondering, my machine shop is currently quite busy, so I have yet to receive a prototype. Hopefully I'll see something next week.

its a great feeling when they finally fire up after all that time. congrats

this is good to hear. thanks guys.

have you considered getting the A/T pusher fan? I now am. (this now worries me, as I figured the upgraded rad would be OK with AC)

It seems the time has come that I need to replace my valve stem seals. While my rebuild is only ~50k km old, it seems as though the stem seals were not replaced when the head was built. As a result, my car smokes on startup and after prolonged idling. I've got a bag of fel-pro valve stem...