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Shop press worked for me as well. I machined a piece of steel tube to fit on the lip of the ball bushing (also helped with re-install)

T-10 3" here. No complaints.

ultrasonic cleaning bath with industrial detergent cleaner (Alconox) is the only thing that got mine clean.

RIP. Never easy losing people close to you. Sorry for your loss.

elemental designs edead worked well for me...2-3 layers covering my entire car, and it is butyl rubber (not asphalt) so when it gets hot, my car doesn't smell like a freshly laid road.

So I've been driving the car around for the last couple of weeks on a relatively rough tune at a maximum boost of about 11 psi. The engine is extremely smooth - much smoother at idle than my 02 maxima. With my current setup, I see positive pressure under 2k, and I hit 11 psi slightly after 3k...

depends how badly you spin the bearing... high heat typically accompanies prolonged use in a state of reduced lubrication.

Give these guys a call. They are literally 100 feet from my office and they have done a fair amount of heat treating work for me. They are an industrial shop, so their quality is generally top notch. http://www.thermexmetal.com/liquid_nitriding.htm

For simplicity, go with nitriding. I've seen chrome plating used a lot, however, in a few instances I've seen it flake. Unless the plater is top notch, I'd stick to the simpler surface treatment which has no chance of flaking (and can get pretty damn hard).

Like I told you in the PM I sent, the kill switch goes hand in hand with the fuel pump rewire. do a search for that - there are some pretty detailed threads outlining it. As i mentioned, install a switch on the relay ground. After reading the fuel pump rewire threads, the kill switch install...

If you are talking about MK4 injectors, you may want to have a look at a picture of them before considering this any further. top feed and side feed are NOT interchangable.

Sumeet, If I remember correctly, I used 2" x .125" 6061 aluminum bar. I simply used a vise to bend it and a hacksaw to cut it....It came out fairly well for such a crude way of making it. To make the brackets, first make templates out of cardboard - saves you from drilling lots of holes.

Can you at least rev match into gear?

It certainly is most noticeable in reverse. Thanks for the input, it is good to know there is nothing out of the ordinary.

yeah, I just realized that...I don't recall the friction surfaces being separated by anything other than a solid plate, so chances are there are no marcel springs. Would have been great if I'd taken a picture of the disk before installing!

3+ is a full faced sprung disk...don't know if the friction surfaces are separated by marcel springs though...

It generally occurs when feathering the clutch, such as pulling the car into and out of the garage. I'm thinking it is just the clutch chattering, which in turn induces some rotational shocking into the differential. Only time will tell if it goes away I suppose.

I'm not sure if I should call this a problem, more of an annoyance I suppose. Anytime I'm moving the car at low speed, be it first or reverse, I encounter a rather severe drivetrain shudder, which sounds like it is focused around the differential. Since the drivetrain really only has ~750...

Now you've got me interested. I might have to have some Al scrap I've got laying around cryo treated and have a look at the mechanicals/microstructure. Interesting that it appears to alter the heat capacity and/or thermal conductivity of the Al.

Every day for me!