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also remember that the tstat is located at a point before the oil makes its trip through the engine. as a result, it is going to get quite a bit hotter before it gets to the pan, giving ample time to flash off volatiles/vapors

what are you using to control and monitor fuel pressure?

and you've verified that the odo hasn't been rolled back how?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/Parts/19518.aspx 89+ is cheaper for the identical (save for connector color) part.

shear rings are still working well on my apex'i shocks (which I suspect to be re-badged bilstiens)

19518-42020 wire, ignition coil

I think that harness was less than 20 dollars when I bought it.

to some of the members commenting negatively about some of the posts in this thread, a forum membership does not automatically entitle you to all imAginable help. if you don't like the answers you've received, figure it out on your own and stfu. there's nothing that makes you want to help...

the other piece of the equation. spark.

if your wideband is reading in the range you say, quit questioning the fuel. if you were leaning out like you suspect, you'd have melted something by now.

yep take the cylinders to a locksmith. had it done on my car.

metric bolts! it scares me that you didn't know this...

using the correct torque sequence with new bolts, chased/cleaned female threads and oil lubricant, threadlocker is unnecessary. as for the pressure plate bolts, use the highest grade you can find ( 8.8 or 10.9)

For an undampened spring under ideal conditions, sure. However, the dampening of a shock will absorb energy (thus not catapaulting the rider/driver upon hitting a large obstacle).

I've got them on my car. Pair them up to a good set of shocks and you should be golden. They are also fairly light compared to other springs which is nice. The spring rates aren't as high as some of the other offerings so you won't punish your kidneys too badly on rough roads. Get a good set...

well in theory, less energy lost to the stiffer suspension translates to more energy for moving forward, so this is somewhat true. if you don't beleive me, ride a hardtai and full suspension bike up a hill. see which one takes more energy to get to the top.

that stuff is extremely easy to remove and clean...pretty much the entire interior is as well. there are also rubber plugs to drain all of the places that trap water (including the box-section side members) edit: that was before I saw the pictures! (work comp) fuck that, I'd throw in the keys...

Since the front end is double wishbone (relatively equal length arms IIRC), there won't be a lot of change in camber when lowering. It sounds to me like the alignment shop is trying to shaft you (had a shop do this to me with my dd...told them to get the car off the rack and I was going to take...

what did your head rebuild consist of? any smoke on startup?

too old to insure? I'd think thats a good thing for the insurance companies...as the amount they are liable for on the car is now quite small...