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no I don't, though I see how my post was confusing. It is now edited.

use the original (ARP) specs. Clean the threads and lube as per ARP. They are not torque to yield bolts, and assuming they weren't preloaded into the plastic range the first time, they can be used again.

clean it too.

I'd hope there would be enough interest for maintenance parts (although, as i've seen some bragging about $13 brake pads, I'm not so sure). I'd be all over this if I was on stock brakes...

did you bother to clean your cooling system after your blown head gasket (specifically, the radiator AND heater core)?

you do realize an oem battery tie-down costs less than $25...

I just did a quick tally... In addition to the cost of the car, around $10,000 CAD and 10,000+ USD. (in the last 3 years)

I know its extremely ghetto, but you could JB weld a nut on the other side (should work as long as you're not constantly removing and installing the battery) I can't beleive I recommended JB weld...

you could drill and tap to a M8 thread...if there is enough nut left on the other side, you're in business. If not, remove what is left of the nut and use your own nut and bolt.

it should be threaded...M6 x 1. Looks like yours is stripped.

if you change the oil every six months, service stations will make more money on you. if you really want to know the health of your oil, do an oil analysis. This will tell you if you are in need of a change.

lol, don't believe everything you hear.

thats some clever engineering right there. not that I've done a lot of research on this topic, but are standalone dbw systems available? I know of the motec system, but I'm under the impression it ties into the main ecu.

go look at each one. whichever is not rusted through in the rear wheel wells is the car you should choose. from there, pick the next best condition. engines can be re-built cheaply, proper body work, not so much.

This goes against my whole build philosophy, thats why I have the issue with it. Sure, I've been driving the car for a few days and have subconciously learned to eliminate any throttle-related bucking, but for somebody else, the car is a nightmare to drive at low speeds. But as figgie said...

Got the bitch aligned yesterday...here are the results: fr caster left - 7.1 deg fr caster right - 7.1 deg fr camber left - -0.9 deg fr camber right - -1.2 deg fr toe - 1/16" both rr camber left - -2.6 deg rr camber right - -1.5 deg rr toe - 1/16" both Numbers don't look that bad, but it seems...

this was another solution that I was contemplating. It sucks that i had to remove the original eccentric arm assembly to clear my hood... oh well, fabbing stuff is fun.

pb92supraturbo sent me a couple pictures and I installed mine similar to his - I removed (well, actually, bent up) the glovebox liner centre mount and stuffed the harness above and behind (to the right) the ECU. There was quite a bit of room up there with the mount removed. PM me your email...

have you guys tried messing with the TPS adjustment at all?

or just jumper to a running car.