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what's wrong with wisecos? power won't kill your pistons (within reason), a poor tune will. I consider significantly upping the boost on the stock computer with a stock intercooler and a CT26 upgrade a poor tune. YMMV.

looks like v2 is a hell of a lot smaller than v1...damn you.

Sounds like a stupid owner problem to me. Re-trace your steps. leave anything unplugged? install the correct plugs? is there oil in the plug holes? are your plug wires fucked?

in my not so humble opinion, unless you are going to be pushing the oiling system to eleven, the gains (i.e. pressure drop reduction) resulting from upgrading the oil pipe are not worth the expense. Go back to stock and spend your money on a thermostat-controlled cooler set-up and possibly a...

Make one for IS coils for the 7M and you'll have my money.

I'd say you should consider yourself lucky that you aren't in need of a head rebuild. Hopefully that valve stayed straight through the whole ordeal.

what dan said. you misread my post - improving the flow to the oil pump drive shaft will reduce flow through the main bearing up to the rod on the affected cylinder.

Is a slight decrease in flow to the oil pump shaft really going to have a major negative effect on the longevity of the engine, especially with modern oils? My guess is no, and I'm not sure if you want to improve flow too much more, since it could theoretically reduce flow to the rod bearing...

didn't weaken mine. the quarters don't really carry any load, they are just body panels. There is probably a little bit of stiffening effect of having them on the car, which you will retain if you spot weld and glue/bond the new ones back into place. (automotive body glue is extremely strong)

don't rely on sound. measuring the lash is stupid easy. far, far easier than removing the entire head. A feeler gauge can be had for all of $5.

I'm sure you could get away with a 255/45/16 tire on that rim (if that size is made). Stock on our car is 7" wide with 225. 30 mm wider tire section on a 25 mm wider wheel will be fine. Just a warning though, with wider and stickier tires, you will be putting a lot more heat into your brakes...

water/oil pressure/egt: Get good with a dremel.

1. Brakes. If you are strapped for cash, upgrade the pads to racing compounds and make some ducting. 2. Cooling. Install a bigger radiator, bigger oil cooler, and power steering cooler. Get rid of the AC condenser 3. Suspension. Stiffer springs and new shocks (koni adjustable) are a good...

My guy peeled the panel all the way to the door jamb and down behind the mudguard and replaced it. My replacement quarters were removed by drilling out every single spot weld (aside from the wheel well, where the metal was cut) so it was essentially the same as a new panel from toyota.

You can sort of see in this photo where my body guy cut out the old panel (the white filler line)

Because most of them are inside the car in the power distribution panels. My relay is in the engine bay, hence, it is sealed. How reliable were those 80s GM vehicles?

I don't consider something not sealed viable for an automotive engine bay application.

I've re-used it without any issue. There is no reason that you wouldn't be able to, it is simply a nut (i.e. it does not deform when installed)

use something intended for automotive applications, such as this: http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/150/products_id/504

why? Are you concerned with cracking the mounting tabs off the IC?