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decided to try joining car and engine a bit differently this time. more specifically, dropping the car onto the engine. Sadly, the turbo and manifold are coming out. Forgot to install the 7/16" studs on the exhaust side of the head and pulled out a few studs. Other than that, this has...

FWIW, I have the AEM box and no flat spot. The tuner should be able to tune accordingly as there are several tables that can be fine tuned to adjust throttle response. Are you still on the AFM, or have you gone MAP? I would think MAP would give you a faster response to throttle-related...

still interested. a bit far to help out though. I suppose I could send you a junk head with valve covers...perhaps in exchange for one of those fancy plates.

Not sure I agree with that. I had a dead ISCV on my 2JZ manifold (on my 7M). ISCV was seized open and the idle would surge exactly as the OP described. New ISCV completely cured the problem. Broken vs. unplugged ISCV all depends on the position of the plunger.

If mine is off, I hope the relationship isn't linear. That'll mean (among the many other fasteners I use my wrench on) my head studs are WAY overtorqued.

Installed as per TSRM as there was no torque sheet included with the arp bolts (guess I should have checked arp's website). Checked the ARP site, says 70 lb-ft with loctite 242 and arp lube under the flange. I'm fairly certain my 54 lb-ft with motor oil (if my torque wrench wasn't way out of...

So I was installing my flywheel this weekend. Using the TSRM recommended torque (54 lb-ft) and lubrication (engine oil on threads and under bolt flange), I managed to stretch both ARP and stock bolts. I'm having the calibration on my wrench checked today (I'm fairly certain it isn't going to...

yep, i also go by the same name.

update? well, I've given up on taking pictures for one...and my part time racecar/dd has been receiving a lot of attention. not to mention my child and wife. The car is apart and progress is being made though. New additions since last update include: -RPS flywheel, ATI dampener (should be...

1 - The coolant entering the block is a uniform temperature and flows unrestricted into the block 2 - The majority of heat absorbed by the coolant is in the head

?? you don't want coolant flowing into one side of the head and out the other. temperature gradients are bad things. 2 outlets means more even coolant temperatures. Here's a general summary of where the lines flow. heater bypass at back of head -> water outlet behind thermostat coolant...

Camber will depend somewhat on the tires. Are you on streets, mild R-comp (200 treadwear and below) or R comp (100 and below)? If on mild or r-comp, I'd max the front camber if I were you, and have the front camber greater than the rear. -2 in the rear should be plenty.

and a bunch of these responses are exactly why I don't stop by often. the yellow highlighted line is the heater bypass. When coolant flow is blocked or reduced to the heater, coolant flows out of the motor, through the highlighted line, to the water outlet. When coolant is routed to the...

I'd say go with something smaller than a Q45 - the only way I was able to tame down the twitchiness was to make a new eccentric throttle lever and tune it with the AEM ecu. On the stock ecu, even with the new throttle lever, it was way too jumpy.

Two, one for the head, one for the intake manifold.

If you don't want to spend dealer prices for a plate, shoot me a PM, I've got a couple with new gaskets that I'll let go on the cheap.

what you have there is a JDM head with an EGR blockoff plate already installed (right/passenger side of head). The EGR cooler is a plate that covers the entire back of the head - you have to remove that little block plate to install it.

did....did you read his entire post?

I have a 7M.

koyo racing rad fits perfectly with the stock fan and shroud. just need a plug for the 1jz temperature sensor.