Search results

Track temps will be considerably hotter than you can get on the street - I'm talking about temperatures where if you let air out of the tire, it will burn your hand. You'll probably find they perform better at temperatures like that.

are you using them on the street or on the track? RS-3s need quite a bit of heat for optimum grip.

was hoping this was about RS-3s...nuts.

I honestly can't think of a reason not to have ABS on the street. If you are regularly actuating ABS on the street, you are either driving like a retard, you need a lot more tire under the car, or both. As far as track driving is concerned, for a pure track car, sure, ditch the ABS if you...

this help? (let me know if you need a bigger copy). FFIM here as well.

correct

yes, the trim is easily removed.

Back it out until the throttle is fully closed. If your ISC valve is working properly, backing out the set screw all the way won't drop your idle below the ECU's target value.

Unlikely that somebody is going to give something away to somebody they don't know for nothing...I certainly wouldn't. Gotta pay to play. Do you have a credit card? If you're quick with Van's plate, it is the CC company that puts up the $ for the deposit, not you.

A few years back a member on here or SF installed a full set of bushings, eliminating the spherical joints. Shortly after, he had a fatigue failure of one of the suspension arms. With our IRS, each of the lower arms moves through its own arc as the suspension cycles. Only one of these arms...

You talking about the biggest non-staggered? I've got 9" +35 on the front of my car.

why bother going through the trouble of modifying the tires for such narrow wheels, when you can get far wider that actually fit a stock fender?

a heim joint is essentially a spherical bearing, so yes.

Fairly certain there is only one on each side...

does the kit actually use a bearing, or a bushing allowing motion in only one plane? if the latter is the case, absolutely do not use - I've seen replacing the spherical bearing with a bushing result in the fatigue failure of one of the suspension arms. The bearing is there to permit...

don't replace as it changes the loading on your suspension arms quite significantly.

I feel like a bit of a cheap asshole asking for this, but any chance I could take a look at your AEM map? I'm interested in comparing timing curves - My last tune was on a dying motor with a shitty turbo and my new set-up is pretty similar to yours (750 cc injectors/ffi/6065 turbo but no cams)...

no problem. at operating temperature, there is no difference in clearance between forged and cast. From what I've been told by others, wisecos don't really slap on cold start a whole lot either.

say what? no, you won't have to worry provided the pistons were installed in accordance with Wiseco's specified tolerances. piston slap happens when the motor is cold, and because forged pistons have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than cast, larger cold clearances are needed...

The advantage you have with a standalone is timing control, which will help fend off detonation. Forged pistons will be far more tolerant, but I wouldn't push 21 psi through a stock intercooler with the stock computer, no matter what pistons you are using. As far as fuel is concerned, Husky...