yeah, that's their nature I suppose. was kind of hoping to hear something along the lines of "that stuff is normal for these heads" or "they come like that"...
Upon disassembling and cleaning my newly purchased low mile head, I stumbled upon this:
This is the largest of 3 cracks in identical spots on the head. It doesn't extend into the intake or exhaust port, it is just superficial. Is it ok to run like this?
Auto makers seem to think that...
oh I'm certainly not set on .060 over, it was just out of necessity on this block. shop is going to bore #6 and see how it looks roughed up for .040 over. A member local to me threw out two gte blocks last week...had he not done this, I wouldn't even be making this thread.
Thanks again.
Got the word back from the machine shop that my already 0.020" over block has some deep gouges in #6 thanks (likely) to the blown ringlands. Shop is going to see if it cleans up at 0.040", but if not, would have to go 0.060" over (84.5 mm piston). I know there are guys who are/were running big...
the clutch doesn't "kick" on, it is fluid resistance powered. If the force to move air exceeds the fluid force, the fan spins slower than the pulley. It is a passive system.
Are your AC fans still coming on by any chance?
What do you mean by "each time my fan clutch is engaged"? So any time your car is idling or at low rev, it squeals? The only time the fan clutch is "disengaged" is at higher revs where the fan freewheels. Sounds like it might be your AC belt, squealing when your AC kicks on (provided you...
puzzled? your ringlands are likely blown on #1 with that compression. IIRC, tsrm specifies max difference of 15 psi between cylinders as well. If you disconnect your egr to the manifold, you will probably push oil through your air filter. If you richen up the mix at idle, your miss will...
Crack was in the head. Looking back, the crack was likely the reason that coolant was blown out the overflow a couple of times. It seems as though combustion products (carbon) served to plug the crack and prevent further leaking. Head gasket was intact by the crack and the warm compression of...
I always thought something might have been up with this engine...this just confirms it. Still impressive that it made good power given the difficulties. This just gives a good excuse to upgrade to a forged bottom end and built head. Poodles, the walls of #6 are still in pretty good shape, no...
Last year, this engine (approx. 40k miles post-rebuild) began blowing an excessive amount of smoke out of the PCV system when the routing was slightly modified (manifold vacuum source removed). A compression test revealed 165 psi from #1-5, and 120 psi in #6. Obviously there was a problem...
Two ways you can do it, you can either drill out the hub bosses or make inserts for the calipers and tap them offset for the MK3 sized caliper bolts. A machine shop can do it pretty easily.
For the rotors, you need to make a spacer ring to adapt the rotor to the hub.
Its funny, every time I've seen posts showing backed out flywheel bolts, there is always something in common. ARP bolts. I'd buy a toyota bolt or two and compare bolt lengths. I have a feeling there are some subtle length differences.
Use 7/16" studs with a coarse thread in the block and fine thread nut. Helicoil kit can be found at gregg distributors, studs and nuts can be found at partsource (NOT canadian tire...)
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.