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i have a 90t with a built auto and high stall converter, and a 87t w/ a 5sp with an auto swap going in.

with a harness, you are locked in and become one with the seat. in a roll over, your body cannot move and has nowhere to go. if the roof caves in its going to be on your head. if you had atleast a roll bar installed, it would prevent that from happening. the stock belt system is designed in...

that price isnt bad at all imo. the complexity of the shapes and the price of aluminum now i was expecting it to be over $100.

i use g-force sfi belts. point 1: i am not a fan of a harness bar. sure, atleast you have the belts mounted at the correct geometry. but the only bar ive seen that id trust in a crash is the one jon at mdc makes. the reason im not a big fan of them in general is because in a roll over...

you may also try to unplug and reseat the chip. be careful tho, they are static sensitive.

you could run a 100mm throttle body and it is still going to only flow as much air as available. it would be like running a garden hose with a 2" fitting on the end then swapping to a 5" fitting on the end. it isnt going to flow more water. so no, you shouldnt have to tune anything from...

i disagree. telling people to use a gap that low is too much of a blanket statement. the wider the gap you can run without misfire the better. everyone's car is going to be different, and should tune heat range and gap for their individual car.

just as doc said, everything that B+ goes to, unplug one at a time. here are my diagrams, much nicer than the tsrm online. note these are for 89+, not sure what year you have. but should be close enough to use to figure out your problem. http://www.mk3.us/dave/tech/ecuwire1.gif...

a smaller turbo will spool faster but make less power. a larger turbo will spool slower but make more power. you can offset spool time by going ball bearing, but the downside is cost. you can also offset spool time by using a smaller turbine housing, but the downside is power on the top end...

yes the supply side is 14mm x 1.5 and the return side is 12mm x 1.25 you could drill and retap the 12mm side.

full boost was around 4500 range on the non ball bearing version. it was a precision/garrett unit and specs were 67mm inducer, 84mm exducer, p trim .68 t4 turbine.

all boost on a 67mm turbo. at the time, he was running a hks vpc and apexi afc. he changed his setup now to a gt42 turbo and aem standalone. it is sounding like a 67mm turbo would suit your needs very well. low 500rw on pump gas level boost and mid 600rw+ on high boost. any parts you...

im a tuner and in ky. i do piggyback computers for the most part tho. but if you did decide to do aem or autronic system i can get you help for that. also, im not sure where you are getting no "mid level". a solid motor with a metal headgasket and arp's will do 500rw+ all day long if tuned...

our car has 2 rpm signals, yes. use RPM 2 only which is the IGT signal. IGF is RPM 1, and is the feedback signal from the ignitor.

wow ive never seen a 7m dyno graph that looked like a hammock. 51 means either you touched the gas pedal while in diag mode or your tps is off adjustment. 52 is knock sensor of course. that would explain the huge dip in power. it pulls the crap out of timing and power will fall way off...

remove the resistor and see if it makes a difference. it is only for air intake temp and will just set a code is all. do you have another map sensor you can borrow to rule that out? are you running an afc?

autometer sells the adapter for our car. its a direct screw in to the block and has a female 1/8 npt for a standard gauge. autometer p/n 2269 i dont know that i would be comfortable with just 3 threads. esp an oil leak under pressure beneath a hot manifold. we installed the adapter on...

1/8 bspt = 1/8 x 28 tpi 1/8 npt = 1/8 x 27 tpi they are really close, and you can make a 1/8 npt work, altho it cross threads a little. a tapered thread will not thread in all the way. it will only go so far then stop. it sounds like you have a tapered thread and not straight thread.

battery, connections, corrosion, or cracked fusible link in fuse box.

if you didnt want to drill and tap the turbo, you could do the ic pipe instead. to see if the port is fully closed, do a visual inspection of the flap in the turbine housing.