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nice looking car

yes. i was talking about the cold start injector timing switch. i should have been more specific. i'll edit it.

indeed. the new aem kit i sell has this. it has a sensor that if the bottle goes below a certain point or there is a problem with the pump it will trigger an output. the output can either reduce timing or reduce boost when triggered.

william- that mr clean winter mix is what most around here use. they say its better than the blue

so long as your fuel system is up to the task, a 50-75 shot is easy to do.

i use a temp switch in place of the cold start injector timing switch. it is a direct swap. you could drill and tap any of the unused ports on the tstat housing. info here on mine- http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21320

yeah that reminds of the other part of your question, sorry i forgot to respond to that. nitrous adds horsepower. meth injection does not add power. only allows more boost and/or timing. meth around here is $3/gal (gal goes a long way) nitrous is $4.50/lb ($45 per bottle fill)

ok, wasnt sure which you meant. i knew you didnt mean methane, which is swap gas haha. the good- can run higher boost levels on pump gas helps keep inside of the motor clean has some cooling effects its cheap compared to race gas the bad- even tho it allows you to run higher...

you mean propane injection? or do you mean methanol injection?

1. loud is subjective. i didnt find them loud, barely heard them inside the car. they arent high pitched. 2. i had my FAL fans on for roughly 70k miles. the rubber seal on the shroud came apart, dropped down into the fans, and broke a blade. it then locked up and burnt the motor. if it...

i had the fans listed above w/ my pwr radiator. sitting in stop and go friday afternoon traffic in chicago in 92F weather the car never got over 190F. one of the fan motors burnt up and i replaced it w/ the ultra performance zirgo dual 12's. often, cfm numbers are exaggerated. but these...

i thought you didnt want to spend much, which is why i suggested the other one. it comes with instructions on what to do. but basically, you wire it into the ecu. thread the air intake temp sensor into the ic pipe. run a vac line off the intake manifold to the map sensor. also, it is...

another thing i would check is Tt to ground (E1). with a volt meter, check that the voltage is going from 0v -5v in steps as you increase throttle position. you can do this with the car not running, just have it turned on. if this isnt working correctly, it will have a huge effect on shifting.

i like! cheap and effective. would be a little cooler to find a smaller box, but its much better than trying to find somewhere to mount a brick.

there is a big difference between a map and maf sensor. maf sensor you can put in front of the turbo in place of the afm. or, you can put it inline of any of the ic pipes. just be advised if you want the bov to work correctly, the maf has to be after the bov. map sensor is just a small...

afr i hope you mean wideband afr. otherwise, it wont help you. back in the day, people use to use the port on the accordian hose where the stock bov used to reroute into. they would use a 3/4" heater hose to a small piece of hose fitting to a k&n breather filter. it would raise the fco a...

pretty sure that is the euro mkiv wheel. if so, it is a different hub.

you sure the fluid is full? if mine is just a fuzz low i can feel the difference. be sure you do the gear select and engine warm and running for the fluid check. have you checked for tranny codes at all? does your speedo work?

yeah they run pretty damn rich w/ the 550 chip. id use the 440 chip if you have it. i still wouldnt expect THAT rich tho. like was said, you may need to back down the fuel pressure.

the original maft has very little tuning capabilities. most ran the maft and an afc. but, the new gen 2 maft does so much more than an afc does. so, i would get the gen 2 maft and a 3" gm maf. i believe the maftpro, map sensor, etc is more than you need for your application.