i no longer have this boost controller on my car, its on a friend's and he is out of town til later this week. it is currently setup for an external wastegate, but i can go back thru and do a step by step setup when he gets back if it will help. i have just been going by memory the issues ive...
i like turtles.
seriously tho, if something was goofy in the setup or hookup, it could be off from really being "off" on the controller.
best bet honestly would be to get an inline barb and bypass the controller all together and see how it behaves.
hmm, now that im looking back, i see it...
ok, just making sure 100%
what i would do at this point is do a full reinitialization of the unit, then go back and set everything up again in the configuration.
then, set the boost at 1bar, duty at something real low like 10% and see what happens. dont forget there is a record and...
just be sure when you have it do the correction you dont have it in emulation mode. if the wideband were to freakout it could pull the a/f fasely lean.
i know there are limits you can set for max rich and max lean, but id rather be safe than sorry. i just go back thru the logs and adjust to...
OH!!
that reminds me, thanks IJ
be sure on the solenoid you have it connected to the right ports. the NO goes to the turbo and the COM goes to the wastegate.
you leave the NC open unless you are running an external wastegate.
sounds like the problem is the duty cycle. the higher the duty cycle, the sharper the ramp of boost. if it is set too high, you can get boost spike or boost creep. try reducing duty cycle down to around 20% and see if that helps.
also, are you doing the learn gear mode or manual mode?
as reference, at 26psi bfp your injectors will actually flow like 603cc.
bfp/43.5psi (flow rate psi)=x
sq rt of x= y
y * cc rate of inj = flow
as far as how low you can adjust fuel pressure, that will depend on what regulator you are running. my paxton will go down to ~25psi. a lot of...
no way in hell id take 77% out of mainscale. that would screw your timing map and run extremely high timing. remember, mainscale is cumulative, so any corrections you have at rpm are going to be added to -77% which would make things that much worse.
also, you would probably be better off by...
yeah see, $2k for a 700r4 up to 550hp, or $2k for a 4L80 over 500hp.
monster transmission has a 700r up to 650hp for $1600.
also, dont forget they rate them at crank hp. fwiw, my 340e is rated at 750hp, but cost as much as these trans listed.
project noob- if you got one with a fan...
our throttlebodies are shut at idle. thats why the isc is needed. the idle screw on the older ones are not going to work on their own. you dont have to use a toyota isc. you could use a ford or nissan for that matter. but if you did want to use a stock isc, you could just cut the flange off...
if you run a map based system on the stock ecu (vpc, maftpro, map ecu, etc) you dont have to route the isc back into the intake. you can make an aluminum box w/ the stock flange to mount the isc. run a hose to the intake manifold to the box. since you ar running map based, you can run a small...
you can elim the water lines. its mostly to keep it from freezing when you live/drive in a very cold climate.
the water lines also feed over to the tps. it just makes a big loop out of the block, isc/tps, back into block. all we do is just make a loop on the block from where it comes out...
a transmission cooler is like a radiator for your transmission. it cools the fluid and returns it to the trans. without it, the fluid would get too hot.
they are generally $50-150 for one. the more expensive ones are the same cooler with a small fan. i prefer the b&m coolers due to the...
the audio isnt that good, but the video stabilization is awesome!
the fast bits kinda reminded me of the chase scene on endor in return of the jedi haha.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.