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By reading the info that gates gives are you getting the same impression as I am? I'm guessing that companies selling the stuff say not to use with gasoline because gates main page says but it doesn't say "do not use for gas"...when you do refer to the data it tells you to check, the data...

Please correct me if I'm wrong but to me gates is saying that that particular nitrile works great with gasoline...

Lol plus: Temperature range: -40°F to +212°F (-40°C to +100°C) normal service. For temperatures exceeding 160°F use hose clamps. Tube: Type C (Nitrile). Black. RMA (Class A) high oil resistance. Reinforcement: Braided, high tensile synthetic textile cord. Cover: Type C (Modified...

Yes gates plus...which is a class C nitrile inner and outer which according to this: 3rd page http://www.gates.com/downloads/files/catalogs/Hose_chemical_04.pdf it does very well with gasoline...LOL plus is a multipurpose hose which it looks to be great for gasoline..

I just did some more poking around and it seems to be that jegs push lok is actually gates push lok hose...which is constructed with a nitrile inner tube just like most braided fuel line....I honestly believe it will be ok

Earlier today I ordered my fittings and push-lok hose for my afpr etc....come to realize that jegs says the hose isn't meant for fuel...I believe it will be fine anyway for a short period of time but still pissed at myself for not reading the info on it:-( anybody else run this hose with no...

Uuuum I think that may be a good idea???...

I purchased my headgasket from JSCspeed.com as they are only 30min from me and they had them in stock....their prices are very competitive! There are many vendors on this site also driftmotion sip Zankoku performance list goes on and they all have good prices!

1.2mm is thinner than stock which will increase compression...along with milling a block and head... You want to keep as close to factory compression as possible so you'll have to wait till after the head is milled...ask the machinist to measure the head before and after milling so you know...

Thank god it's the front quarter!!!!

I'd have converted to r154 myself...keep in mind I daily my n/a

It's got 200,000 miles on it...it's old and worn which causes the gears to have play...but if the trans feels great and works then it works...plain and simple...I had to reread your post as I thought you said the trans itself has play but no rather the shifter does...that's a $20 fix with two...

If it's just slop in the shifter then heck yeah you can get new shifter bushings...takes 15min to replace inside the car:-) backlash in the trans requires a rebuild..

Rebuild....and new shifter bushings....hardly worth the effort

These are holding me up in a bad way! If you have these shims my paypal is ready to go! .1057" .1141" .1057" I know this is the wrong section but it gets the most traffic....these 3 shims are litterally stopping me from being able to turn the key:-(

It is running....I'm on it right now...

Only one bolt sees coolant and that's on the bottom of the first two runners...it's also not a bolt but rather an npt fitting

That is seriously funny!

Ruffly around the time I decided the block would work best as a coffee table :3d_frown:

That could be my bad...I didn't use lube as I was just getting initial measurements for bearings. I honestly forget the torque as it was about a year ago and I was just fucking around...wasn't really trying to produce data:-/