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My stock signal is running though the AEM wideband on the nerst setting for the aux wire. ive had it that way for several months now and its been fine.

The best thing you could do is wait till you have the money to do it right.. I know this is one of those situations where its easier said than done but you would be alot happier in the long run. I know first hand when i didnt have my supra that long when it was a NA auto i wanted it to look good...

anybody? lol

Ok, so ive ran across a odd problem im having trouble diagnosing. I can jump in the car and drive and get really decent A/Fr's with and without boost....but if i stop park then come back it will stay pig rich ard run 12.6 at idle and even richer when on the petal and will continue to stay there...

watch out for some of the turbo XS bov's. i've seen some of them leak right out of the box due to the fact that there is no real seal on them.....from my experience Tial, HKS, and sometimes the Greddy's have had the best luck.....remeber: function> looks/sounds

I used the nylon rope method when i changed out my valve stem seals....worked great..... But before that I tried using the compressed air and I had a tad too much pressure and it acutally pushed the piston down, I almost lost the valve but managed to grap the tip with my fingers.... I really...

you already have a stock one built into your radiator, but extra is always good, i am running a fairly big cooler on mine. One of the biggest destroyers for the A340E trans is heat.

to keep mine cooler Ive got the exhaust manifold, exhaust housing, and the downpipe ceramic coated, Ive also go two electric fans infront of the radiator where the AC condensor used to be for the extra hot days or when im beating on it.

hmm i bet for maybe 1k$ or so you could be in his close friends list lol :naughty:

yea, IJ is right, right now ive still got the old 4.30 from when mine was an NA in... my gas mileage is horrible on the highway

well by that he means a leakdown tester...they are not too cheap if you want to do that your best bet would be try to find a buddy who has one.....but if you do a comp. test and you get straight numbers across the board chances are you are fine

the waterfall sound doesnt always mean BHG....

the only real for sure answer your going to get is if you do a compresson test, its easy to do and even the 25$ actron one will give you a ball park range of what your in.

kyle is right, if your in warm weather year round you should be alright, but be perpared to change it out more often becaue it will take a beating...

or you could do the candy color powdercoating and it would look something like this.... excuse all of my finger prints on them though lol

the water on the floorboard is a leaking heater core, and that can be your "waterfall" sound right there, if its not too cold in your area you can bypass the heater core....the good part is you wont have coolant taking its toll on your interior and everything else behind your dash, the bad part...

that goes from the heater valve to the head, not from the core to the valve

are you looking for the one on the drivers side or passenger? the passenger one you can get at pepboys I believe....the other one you will have to go to toyota for. EDIT: they have the one that goes from the heater valve to the head not the core itself. for both of the ones that go to the...

yea, your kind of limited to that if your wanting to stay cheaper. I managed to squeeze close to 250hp out of my NA and couldnt get anymore...then I went turbo. A couple other things you could do is MSD ign, port and polish the intake mani (ive got one for sale) oh and if you go with the OBX...

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