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you can run those higher than 37, but I don't know if I would trust a stock diaphram to hit really high pressures

heres a new one my buddy took

theres a couple different verions of that.... A llttle use of a CNC can make one really quick IVe been running this one for awhile

have you checked your timing? what about your TPS?

Check your fuses, EFI fuse is under the hood in the fuse box though

hmm thats funny, hes wanting to get to the strip ASAP, in my case ive had my car 5 years now.... with all the mods i have below, and im picky as hell about maintenance and ive still never had the car at the track and prob won't for another year or two...but to each his own I guess ::shrug...

just use FIPG, most toyota dealerships charge 14$ a tube. or use "the right stuff". Don't use the cork gasket, they didnt come on there for a reason

No.

lol thanks, but see im still on the stock CT haha. ive got everything to support the new turbo, just ran out of money by that time:nono: lol So hopefully around December ill be able to afford it.

Figured I would post this up since I dont really race that much. When I was 16-17 I always felt I had to prove somthing, now being 20 theres no need for that and i just dont really care anymore. I was up in the tim hortons/ bw3's parking with two of my friends as we notice this group of guys...

With the SOGI mod your going to get opinions from one extreme to the other, I currently am using the sogi mod but I welded the stock threads ontop so I can still use my TRD knob, the shift knobs with the set screws suck. I am also using the green truck bushing too. The best thing you could...

you would need a MSD DIS-4 box, two tach adapters, and the two step box. what most people run into is the fact that having stock coils at 20+ years old they are not up for the task of running the MSD so they run the GM coils. I have the part numbers somewhere, ill post them if i can find them

you dont need any special management, im running one without bigger injectors too. You just get your TPS wiring right and set it at .385 volts on the output wire.

one of my older pics ive always liked.... and a newer one

if you do the test as grim says and it fails, i have a extra NA AFM laying around that i would let go for cheap and I'm 100% sure that it works, I'm close to the Dayton area...not sure if you come down this way that much

someone on here would prob. be more than happy to sell you one from a car their parting out. But if you were even thinking about spending the money on one from the dealership you would be better off spending the extra cash on a one piece shaft and never have to worry about replacing one again...

thats what I was just thinking lol

ahh thanks....that saves me so much, i was about to pull my hair out with this thing lol Did you change out the ECU too? Before I saw your post the next thing on my list was the ECU then the harness just beacuse Im sure I could borrow one and it takes about 10 minutes to change.

Has anyone found the solution to this? I am also having this same problem so i figured I would add it on to this post rather than make a new one. Im having the exact same problem as the thread starter, My A/F ratio is right where it should be for factory settings at idle, cruise, and wot...

Ok, im following you on most of that, when the car is of and the ign is turned to on the wideband goes to flatline lean on the guage. as far as it changing to pig rich though i can drive it for about 1/2 an hour and then let it idle and after so long it will move to running pig rich with it just...