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Seems to have fixed it, it didn't quit yet. After the ECU relearned the trims the car idles smooth and fires right up when I start it. I think my starter might be dieing though, cause it still hits a hard spot every once in a while when it's cranking when the motor is hot. I'll have to clean up...

If you can't find a cause for the misfire under the hood check your ECU for leaking caps. It seems like idle problems, especially ones that get worse when the car warms up, are a signature of bad ECU caps. Mine idled smoother after I recapped my ECU, and repaired all the circuit damage.

If they were wider the offset could be fixed with a spacer... but 7" isn't worth it.

Thanks GN, but I replaced those already. I resoldered those diodes and cleaned and retraced the corroded traces with solder and the car runs alot better now... but it still doesn't have a "smooth as glass" idle like I was expecting. You can still hear an odd misfire now and then at idle. It's...

Desoldered the suspect cap and it's not leaking, and further reading tells me that poly film caps can't leak because they're dry inside. I'm going to assume the corroded spot on the board was a drip from a leaking cap on the opposing circuit board, or something that fell into the ecu while it...

Well... this got more interesting. I replaced the five round caps that are known for leaking, and one resistor that was damaged by the acid, and the car fired up and ran. It seemed like the problem was fixed... till today. Halfway to work the car started missing and the CEL came on, and...

Yikes, south africa, huh? Maybe you could call a large glass company in the UK or US and have it shipped... it would be expensive though.

2K is a bit of a waste of oil... unless you only put that much on in 4 months or something.

A miata would be a great car for DD as long as you don't need to haul anything or take more than one other person anywhere. I'd stay away from the MX-3 unless it's a 4 cylinder model... the V6 MX3 was a PAIN to work on. That really applies to any car with a V6. Stick with a 4 cylinder...

Sounds like the rear differential, drain the fluid and look for chunks or metal or large metal flakes on the magnet (that's attached to the drain plug) or in the fluid. If it's clean then do the same thing with the transmission, but from what you described it sounds like the rear diff. If it...

I'm really surprised nobody suggested a digital multimeter yet! (or maybe they did and I missed it) That's the first thing I'd get, I'd be lost without mine. If you have some cash to spend get a really good one with graphing and waveform capabilities, like a Snap On Vantage. It even has...

I'd be wary of ebay no-name turbo blankets. I bought one years ago and the damn thing melted. It was made out of crappy fiberglass and mystery metal... first time the turbo glowed hot the blanked melted into a puddle of glass and what looked like burnt tin foil. I thought my car was messed up...

Old people are why we can't have nice things. Well... old people, teenage girls, drunks, stoners, soccer moms, jealous hillbillies, and people who never wash their car. Oh... and kids. Can't forget the 8 year old girl that crashed her bike into my door and then rode away as fast as she could.

I wouldn't spend that much on Nology wires. For most cars a set of NGK plug wires will work excellent... but if you really want to spend a fortune on plug wires I would recommend Magnecor Competition KV85 plug wires.... I always had good results with these on turbo engines. They have the best...

Pulled it anyway. I was too curious as to whether or not I had any caps leaking. I did, but just one. The C109, and it corroded the trace that it mounts to pretty bad, even corroded the pad for the resistor that's next to it. I'm hoping this is the cause of my slightly rough idle and...

Does anyone know if the ecu caps are all the same values/specs in the different cars that came with the 1JZ? I found a writeup online with the part numbers to buy the replacement caps, but it's for a supra 1JZ ecu, and mine is a soarer ecu. Not sure if they use the same caps, and I don't wanna...

Yes, lots of grey grease. Corrosion protection. I hear JDM paper clips work better for flashing the codes out though. :evildeal:

I think the "murder" part of that phrase comes from what the car does to your hands when you leave it sit in the sun for a few hours and then try to open the hood. I have to keep gloves in the (gasp) glove box just for that purpose. Flat black does look bitchin though... at least all the cops...

If you buy just a 1JZ motor and tranny you'll need alot of other things, and alot of time to put it in and figure out the problems once it's in (sometimes there are no problems after a swap, but you're more likely to win the lottery). If your 7M isn't completely trashed just fix it. Do it right...

The only thing to watch out for buying R12 is that the container you're buying is still full. I bought a few cans of R12 about 8 years ago at Napa and left them in my basement for a few months before I used them. They were unopened, but nearly empty when I tapped them. Also, I've seen some junk...