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Could always try running something like B&G syncroshift or Royal Purple Syncromax. They work well in cars with stubborn syncros. You sacrifice some shock protection with them though. If it's shifting hard I'd just get it fixed right, before you wear out something more expensive like a shift...

Are the calipers all on the correct sides with the bleeder screws at the top of the caliper body? Also, did you try removing the bleeder screws completely to make sure the holes in the screw and the hole in the caliper body are all open. It's not uncommon for rust or junk to plug up the...

Thanks for the info. I'm running the stock ECU right now though. I would need a standalone to run the ZZ or LS1 coils with the individual igniters, correct? I know it would be beneficial to have the ability to match the dwell time to whatever coil I use, but I don't know if the stock ECU has...

I was mostly looking at these because of the price. The Jegs coils are $120 for six. I dug around on the mustang forums and found out that their stock coils are good for at least 15 psi of boost at .035" gap (in a supercharged V8 mod motor). They run a .060" gap stock, and they consider .035" a...

I'm not all that interested in buying another set of stock coils for $50+ each that will crack eventually just like the first set did, so I was looking at some other common COP applications to see what might retrofit. I *think* the ford modular motors use dummy coils (external ignitor). So I was...

The rubber boot is the correct part, just don't bother putting it in there if you have any oil leaks in that area. The rubber tends to swell up and rub the flywheel and make smoke/stink.

Did you read the whole "how to wire a soarer 1JZ into an MA70" sticky... or just the first page? I posted a change to the wiring, because the OP had the starter solenoid, alternator and fuel pump wired wrong. I *think* my post was on page 10 of the thread (or somewhere around there). Make sure...

Is there any good reason to go through all this trouble other than better weight distribution? I was considering doing this, but adding 10 pounds worth of heavy cable and switches and all the hair I pulled out trying to make sure I did everything right seems like it would make it not worth it...

I think the beech ones are steel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-Landcruiser-CT26-Turbo-Charger-17201-17040-new-/180676152407?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a11234c57 :aigo: lol

Our cars aren't so heavy when you compare them to new RWD cars. I was looking in a magazine (car and driver I think) at the weights of the new mustang, camaro, and challenger... they're pigs (some are over 4000 pounds!). They all have more power (stock anyway), and much newer technology, but the...

The first way is not emissions compliant, the second way is (in most states). The first way will keep oil vapors out of the intake pipes and turbo (but might spew them out wherever you vent them to), the second way won't (unless you have a catch can with an oil separator in the line). Either...

This has been covered a million times, so forgive people if they aren't enthusiastic about answering the same thing over and over and over. Searching will get you an answer faster anyway, just don't try to use the built in search here, it sucks. Use google...

Clogged/kinked breather line maybe? That's where the air comes into the crankcase from (other than from blow-by). The PCV line just pulls the air out into the intake manifold and sounds like it's operating normally. Vacuum shouldn't build up though, if the breather line is functioning properly.

If you ever decide to move up to the R154 you can easily get all your money back for the W58/JZ bellhousing, clutch, and flywheel. They sell used for almost the same price as you pay for new parts. Also, you'll need the clutch fork and throwout bearing from a MKIV non-turbo (same car you get...

Like he said, a razor blade. Buy a razor scraper at the auto parts store for a few bucks. The surface doesn't need to look perfect like a mirror, it just needs to be flat and free from crap. You won't remove discolored spots in the metal without having the block resurfaced at a machine shop...

Yeah (JZASeventy) it sounds like you've got PCV or breather problems, not necessarily a turbo issue. When turbos wear out (in my experience anyway) they usually start by puffing out some blue smoke from the exhaust when you let the car idle for a few minutes and then drive off. Although, PCV...

I like that people in shitty cars assume they can keep up with me because they think MKIII's are slow and overweight. They usually find out the hard way what happens when you mod one and remove all the luxo-barge stuff.

I put 1G eclipse non-turbo seats in mine, but there was welding involved... lots of it. I love those seats though, for only having slide and recline they are so damn comfortable and supportive. They also look like normal car seats and not like something from the starship enterprise.

I have the same one on mine. IIRC I paid $80 shipped. The v-band clamps suck, they didn't tighten up properly on mine, they didn't keep the pipes in line with each other, and loosened up from shitty metal quality after a few weeks. I ditched the clamps and welded all the pipe pieces together...