Newly Swapped 1JZ Shakes...

[DarkOne0]

It seems to be running pretty good but it gets a slight shake after a while. It started right up on the first try so that felt good. Now I'm just trying to work out the kinks.

The engine also seems to torque more that my 7M. Its got new square mounts on the adapter brackets. I figured it wouldn't move much since it has new mounts.

Any suggestions?

 

[92TealSupra]

No misfire? Also the mounts you installed, are you sure they're not broken? What year is your car, if you had the fluid filled mounts; which take the vibration better, then you will feel more with these more to say " solid mounts " that are just rubber like a hockey puck, maybe a little softer.

 

[Arrest_me_red]

try taking and uploading a video, it helped me with my problems

 

[DarkOne0]

They are brand new OEM mounts. The engine has a very slight miss on idle. It seems to behave normal while driving. Its doesn't break up or anything like that under boost. If the exhaust system was missing one of the rubber holders by the tranny would that add to the shake? I was missing that one so I used a tie strap while i buy another one.
Thoughts:
Coil packs cracked?
Spark plug gap?
Some sort of flywheel issue. Maybe bolts are backing out? Ive only driven the car 30 miles since the swap.

 

[hvyman]

What rpm does it happen at?

Cant use fluid filled mounts on pre89.

 

[DarkOne0]

I only notice it on idle and when I rev it it goes away.

 

[hvyman]

At what rpm?

 

[DarkOne0]

around 900 - 1200 anything after 2000 and its gone

 

[hvyman]

You have any vacuum leaks?
Whats the plug gap and type of plugs?

 

[DarkOne0]

NGK (4644) BKR7E Spark Plug @ .28

I dont have any leaks that I can find. I don't hear any hissing.

I dont have the ground wire that plugs up the the back of the head connected. I realized it wasn't connected after the engine was in and now I cant figure out how to hook it up.

 

[hvyman]

TYheres a hole on the back of the head for it. Going to be a real pain with the engine in the car.

Non the less i highly doubt thats the issue.

have you checked for codes?

 

[DarkOne0]

Well it seems like when the car is cold its almost unnoticeable. After I come back from a drive its more noticeable. I think it may just be a slight miss and it gets a little worse after the car has been warmed up and driven. The car drives perfect though. Full boost seems to be around 11 psi and its solid all the way to about 5000 RPM. I haven't gone past that since my clutch hasn't been broken in yet. I guess this weekend I will check the plugs. Any more suggestions are welcomed.

 

[mkiiichip]

First step in diagnosing a misfire, is to determine what cyl is missing. I suggest pulling injector connectors (especially since its cake in a 1JZ)

Then id switch 2 coil packs, and see if the miss follows.

 

[DarkOne0]

So while pulling the connectors what am I looking for? I figure as soon as I pull one of the connectors the engine will miss even worse.

 

[D.J.T.]

Its quite simple. 1st is vacuum leak check then compression check, then spark check, if both of the those are ok that means you have injector problem.

 

[GN_Convert]

my downpipe hits my transmission mount, noticeable at lower RPMs, and it makes a clunk sound and I can feel it in the car. It is easy to look underneath and see if that is it

 

[mkiiichip]

So while pulling the connectors what am I looking for? I figure as soon as I pull one of the connectors the engine will miss even worse.

You are correct. If you do have a misfire, one of the cylinders, while unplugged, will not make the car run any worse. While a healthy cyl will make the car run noticeably worse, while unplugged.

 

[destrux]

If you can't find a cause for the misfire under the hood check your ECU for leaking caps. It seems like idle problems, especially ones that get worse when the car warms up, are a signature of bad ECU caps. Mine idled smoother after I recapped my ECU, and repaired all the circuit damage.