Does anyone know if the ecu caps are all the same values/specs in the different cars that came with the 1JZ? I found a writeup online with the part numbers to buy the replacement caps, but it's for a supra 1JZ ecu, and mine is a soarer ecu. Not sure if they use the same caps, and I don't wanna rip it apart just to check.
ECU cap specs for supra vs soarer 1JZ ecu
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Pulled it anyway. I was too curious as to whether or not I had any caps leaking. I did, but just one. The C109, and it corroded the trace that it mounts to pretty bad, even corroded the pad for the resistor that's next to it. I'm hoping this is the cause of my slightly rough idle and intermittent long cranking/slow cranking and intermittent flooding while cranking. It gets worse when it's hot outside, and even worse when the engine was recently run (which makes the ECU hotter, I measured it with a laser pyrometer). I'll post the results in a week or so when I get the caps in from mouser and have a chance to install them.
Also, if anyone else was wondering, the JZZ30 soarer seems to have the same caps as the supra 1J ecu.
33uf, 35V
15uf, 35V
47uf, 63V
220uf, 10V
100uf, 10V
Also, if anyone else was wondering, the JZZ30 soarer seems to have the same caps as the supra 1J ecu.
33uf, 35V
15uf, 35V
47uf, 63V
220uf, 10V
100uf, 10V
Well... this got more interesting.
I replaced the five round caps that are known for leaking, and one resistor that was damaged by the acid, and the car fired up and ran. It seemed like the problem was fixed... till today.
Halfway to work the car started missing and the CEL came on, and it shut off. Restarted, missing badly, but I made it the last quarter mile to work (yes, I live a half mile from work). Angirily pulled a code 14 (IGF signal missing... the famous dead ecu cap code). I thought maybe I screwed up the recap job, but I don't understand how it worked fine for 3 days and about 200 miles before crapping out. Then I realized all weekend (and my day off on monday) I only drove the car at night when it was ~75 degrees. This morning it was already in the high 80's and the dash was baking hot. Same circumstances that gave the car fits starting before.
So I took the ECU out, pulled it apart, got the microscope out... and looked at my work. It was fine. Started looking around for rouge solder splatter or something and I spotted SOMETHING ELSE LEAKING ACID. I guess I had tunnel vision looking for leakage on the round caps before, because I completely missed a badly leaking square green box near the ECU plug (there's three identical ones there). I've never seen anyone mention replacing this before. I'm not sure what they are, they say 155K 100F on the top... not sure if it's a capacitor or what. I'm trying to find more info on them, and I'm going to desolder the one that looks to be leaking later on to see what it looks like on the bottom.
---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------
Found it...
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...EpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YbjiFS3iM/yPTLADD%2bU4nlc=
I saw the marking on the PCB started with "C"... so I knew it was a capacitor. It's a polyester film capacitor... 1.5uF 100V. The one I linked to is my first guess, but I didn't dig into the spec sheets so there may be a better one for this app.
So I guess we can add 3 more to the list of caps we should be changing. Actually... maybe 4... There's also a smaller black one next to these.... that's the only other non-tantalum cap on the boards. Maybe we should be changing them all?
I replaced the five round caps that are known for leaking, and one resistor that was damaged by the acid, and the car fired up and ran. It seemed like the problem was fixed... till today.
Halfway to work the car started missing and the CEL came on, and it shut off. Restarted, missing badly, but I made it the last quarter mile to work (yes, I live a half mile from work). Angirily pulled a code 14 (IGF signal missing... the famous dead ecu cap code). I thought maybe I screwed up the recap job, but I don't understand how it worked fine for 3 days and about 200 miles before crapping out. Then I realized all weekend (and my day off on monday) I only drove the car at night when it was ~75 degrees. This morning it was already in the high 80's and the dash was baking hot. Same circumstances that gave the car fits starting before.
So I took the ECU out, pulled it apart, got the microscope out... and looked at my work. It was fine. Started looking around for rouge solder splatter or something and I spotted SOMETHING ELSE LEAKING ACID. I guess I had tunnel vision looking for leakage on the round caps before, because I completely missed a badly leaking square green box near the ECU plug (there's three identical ones there). I've never seen anyone mention replacing this before. I'm not sure what they are, they say 155K 100F on the top... not sure if it's a capacitor or what. I'm trying to find more info on them, and I'm going to desolder the one that looks to be leaking later on to see what it looks like on the bottom.
---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 AM ----------
Found it...
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...EpiMZZMukHu%2bjC5l7YbjiFS3iM/yPTLADD%2bU4nlc=
I saw the marking on the PCB started with "C"... so I knew it was a capacitor. It's a polyester film capacitor... 1.5uF 100V. The one I linked to is my first guess, but I didn't dig into the spec sheets so there may be a better one for this app.
So I guess we can add 3 more to the list of caps we should be changing. Actually... maybe 4... There's also a smaller black one next to these.... that's the only other non-tantalum cap on the boards. Maybe we should be changing them all?
Desoldered the suspect cap and it's not leaking, and further reading tells me that poly film caps can't leak because they're dry inside. I'm going to assume the corroded spot on the board was a drip from a leaking cap on the opposing circuit board, or something that fell into the ecu while it was in the shipping container (a chunk of acid powder from a corroded battery cable maybe?).
I'm resoldering the two diodes that were affected and I'll see what happens.
I'm resoldering the two diodes that were affected and I'll see what happens.
I replaced all the caps in mine, they were about $4 total, and I got two of each just in case I screw one up.
here are the Mouser part numbers for you
647-USV1A101MFD
667-ECE-A1VKG33
667-ECE-A1VKG150
647-UKL1J470KPD
647-UKL1A221KPDANA
Some were leaking, some weren't but I figured that I might as well replace all of them just to keep me from having to replace the others in a year or so
here are the Mouser part numbers for you
647-USV1A101MFD
667-ECE-A1VKG33
667-ECE-A1VKG150
647-UKL1J470KPD
647-UKL1A221KPDANA
Some were leaking, some weren't but I figured that I might as well replace all of them just to keep me from having to replace the others in a year or so
Thanks GN, but I replaced those already.
I resoldered those diodes and cleaned and retraced the corroded traces with solder and the car runs alot better now... but it still doesn't have a "smooth as glass" idle like I was expecting. You can still hear an odd misfire now and then at idle. It's not cutting out or throwing a code 14 yet though, or giving me the hard cranking problem that it was.
I put the windows up and let it sit in the sun for an hour (dash temp was ~160 F), then let it idle for ten minutes before I took it for a 4 mile test drive.
Guess I'll have to keep driving and see if the problem comes back again.
I resoldered those diodes and cleaned and retraced the corroded traces with solder and the car runs alot better now... but it still doesn't have a "smooth as glass" idle like I was expecting. You can still hear an odd misfire now and then at idle. It's not cutting out or throwing a code 14 yet though, or giving me the hard cranking problem that it was.
I put the windows up and let it sit in the sun for an hour (dash temp was ~160 F), then let it idle for ten minutes before I took it for a 4 mile test drive.
Guess I'll have to keep driving and see if the problem comes back again.
Seems to have fixed it, it didn't quit yet. After the ECU relearned the trims the car idles smooth and fires right up when I start it. I think my starter might be dieing though, cause it still hits a hard spot every once in a while when it's cranking when the motor is hot. I'll have to clean up my 7M starter and try that one.