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I think DM only rebuilds the stock twins from the Aristo 2JZ, which are different turbos. I don't see anything else listed on their site about rebuilding the 1JZ CT12A twin turbos. I've heard that the stock twins are very difficult to rebalance properly. Most experienced turbo shops won't touch...

Those bad "balljoints" as toyota calls them could be the cause for the tire wear too. Mine were wearing on the inside edge enough to notice in 3 weeks before I put the new joints in mine. Only suggestion I have is to buy an air chisel/hammer with a round punch tip and an "exhaust pipe slicer"...

I'm not sure what the story is on the NSS needing to be bypassed like that, usually you just need to jumper the NSS wires on the transmission range switch harness. That's how I did it on my non vvti soarer swap, and that's how I've done it on a bunch of other A/T to M/T swaps. The ECU thinks the...

I don't know if the calipers required new hoses or not, but a bad brake hose can cause one side to heat up from pressure being held in the caliper. You can pinpoint the problem by disconnecting the hard lines and trying to blow through them to see if there's a restriction/blockage.

Yeah 400hp is fine, but right on the limit of the injectors. You'll absolutely need an external wastegate, a 40mm will work. The internal wastegate on the holset is tiny, and is only sufficient for a diesel engine. You'll want to stay away from the godspeed T4 manifold unless you want to do...

I did foam injection on my eclipse and it held up for 5 years with no problems. The car did rust out, but it wasn't in the area the foam was in. I did it to prevent cracking the unibody from driving the car offroad all the time. I had previously cracked the frame rails under the doors. The...

Yep, that's where mine is too, about 6" before the trans crossmember. You can run the sensor wire up through the shifter hole rather than taking the long route too.

Everything would normally heat up to the same temp, but the oil flowing through the turbo cools the drain fitting and hose down same as it cools the CHRA down. Otherwise the whole turbo would be 1000+ degrees. The 45 degree fittings don't give me the clearance to keep the hose off the manifold...

Talked to a friend today who designs fluid transfer systems for a compressed gas company, he said stainless steel fittings transfer heat 15 times slower than aluminum fittings and 4 times slower than brass fittings, so he suggested using only stainless where the fitting connects to a heat...

I'll probably just go with the teflon hose then... is the earl's 650 what you were using? That's the only AN hose I could find that said it was teflon and rated for 510F. Pretty expensive at $45/ft, but if that's all there is... that's all there is. Were you using manifold wrap or a turbo...

Even the teflon hose is only rated to 500... maybe I'll see if I can make a drain out of tubing.

I'm going to be running a 3/4" hose (-12AN push lok oil hose rated for 257 degrees F, not braided) for my oil drain on my turbo, but things are really tight in there and it will be right against the manifold no matter how I route it. I'm already wrapping the manifold with DEI black heat...

The godspeed manifold doesn't fit right. Should have figured, for the price it would need work. Maybe it fits fine in a soarer body, or in a supra with stock engine mounts (mine are custom). One of the wastegate runners hits the frame, about 1/4" interference. I tried denting it a bit (the...

Could have been contaminants going in with the oil or filter, oil temps could have gotten too high (coolant temp isn't a good indicator of oil temp). Could have been caused by contaminants that were in the turbo CHRA if the motor you took it off of was blown. Could have knocked dirt in while...

The engine swap part of my car only barely broke 3.5K (I fabricated alot of what most people would have just bought), but getting the rest of the car in excellent working condition cost another 3K. Not counting the the recent valve seal job and death of the stock turbos, which cost $800 to do...

I hate to be the guy who says this... but if this is your only car and you need to get somewhere before this time next year... buy a spare car to drive while you do the build. It will give you the luxury of taking your time and doing it right, without worrying about how you'll get to...

The kevlar full faced discs are super sensitive to proper break-in. You NEED to take it easy on it for the break in, or you will ruin it. If you take it easy on it now, it may recover... but it may not. If it keeps slipping, you don't need to replace the pressure plate, just the disc. Either run...

Yeah, I also subscribe to the driving like an ass theory. I never had much trouble that I wasn't asking for. I got pulled over for expired tags in the supra once... he probably would have never taken notice to the car, but I sped up an on-ramp to avoid having to merge into a big group of cars...

That's the older style turbo blanket. The newer style are supposed to work better. I'm taking another look at the cheap turbo blankets, despite my results on my dsm, I just can't afford to spend $230 on one of these things. I was reading that the junk ones are only made of fiberglass and can...

Yeah I ordered a roll of DEI black heat wrap for the manifold, and I'm going to order a turbo blanket tomorrow. I have to see what size blanket I need, but I figure one listed for a ~1.10A/R T4 should fit. I got my turbo today, looks good. I have the housings off right now for cleaning and...