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just wanted to put it out there...my 87 is on ebay right now. No reserve. lots of goodies; extra motor bic DDP aeromotive fuel pressure regulator w/ gauge MAXX EVO front bumper, one piece drive shaft. Dunno if I am even allowed to post this. Bids @ 1500 right now, paid 3,000 just for the bumper...

If the old one has sentimental value store it. Buy the 92 swap interiors and drive it. When your inside it it'll still feel like home. My two shiny pennies.

Thanks for the good ideas guys!!!

I have a MAXX IC that has several leaks where the end tanks are attached. Has anyone ever cut off end tanks and rewelded them? Is this even possible or should I just get a new one? Also does anyone know what the MAXX ICs are made of as far as what kind of core they are(greddy, spearco, etc.)

Yup, leak equals done. BTW it's a strut.

Cheers to Doward. I'll be buying one of these shortly. Can't wait to hear what the quality is like and how much modification is required to install. Having a pristine untouched original uncut chassy is a nice thought, but to go fast, it's just not gonna happen. I say eff it. And if your afraid...

Could not having the jumper wire connected cause this? Dunno just thought I'd bring it up. I think its like E1 to TE1.

Get a job at the post office. Postal employees can register RHD vehicles legally. Don't know what your going to do about emissions, but where there's a will there's a way.....so they say

10-12 pounds of boost, fuel pressure is at 30pounds with vac attached, 40 with no vac. Stock injectors, brand new AFM and no piggybacks. I have a HKS FCD but don't think I'm going to install it. I hit fuel cut all the time, I try to stay out of fual cut but sometimes I can't watch my boost gauge...

I want it slightly above stock I thinck for the added boost. I know its not alot of added boost but more boost more fuel right?

Power booster to stock location. Boost gauge to the small nipple (hehe...nipple) at the back of the manifold (near firewall, below powerbooster banjo bolt) SHit theres five forgot about charcoal canister. Anyway FPR and BOV run into a tee at the big nipple on the front of the manifold. Oh...

Didn't know the CEL won't always be on for codes being stored, check that this weekend. Removed both the EGR and Fuel pressure VSV's (Aeromotive FPR and the Japanese engine didn't come with a EGR valve).Also got rid of the heater valve on the fire wall. I only have vac. going to the FPR, BOV...

cartel: that's how its supposed to work. at idle and low RPM w/ partial throttle the engine has vacuum.

It's mounted on the strut tower. It even says "boost sensor" or "pressure sensor"on it. It's rectangular in shape.

The car is warm , idles fine, starts fine , vac lines good (only has three), and I set timing @10 degrees BTDC. I'm going to double check for codes, timing and fuel press today. So nobody thinks its the knock sensors working

Looks like a Knock Sensor wire to me.

I'd check for cracks in the hose going to the sensor. I'm pretty sure when the gauge has power the needle will be at zero. If it's not moving, then I'd say sensor problems (bad hose or sensor). When the power is off the weight of the needle makes it go all the way down.

Just got done installing a Fel Pro HG. While the head was off I did the KS rewire with RG58 multi strand, double shielded coax cable. Everything went fine except for a huge oil leak (torn cam seal). The only time I get a "check engine light" is when I hit fuel cut. This is the first time I've...

Well 231 and 232 are already takin ummm ONE DOLLAR!

Any DIY stuff is always good.... stuff, 'specially with pics. Be alot cheaper than a NOS or Co2 halo system. I'm interested.