Is this the KS working?

[kawkoretsx]

Just got done installing a Fel Pro HG. While the head was off I did the KS rewire with RG58 multi strand, double shielded coax cable. Everything went fine except for a huge oil leak (torn cam seal). The only time I get a "check engine light" is when I hit fuel cut. This is the first time I've driven the car in probably four years with no light on all the time.

My question is when the KS's detect knock the ECU retards timing correct? Does anything else happen as far as the ECU (more/less fuel etc). Can you feel the ECU correct for knock?

Whats happening with my car is when I'm cruising at just about any RPM from 1000 up to red-line, in any gear, when I go WOT I accelerate for a second then its like NOS is injected until I shift or let off. It's most prevalent at low RPM in a low gear but its there all the time. If I'm in third, at 2,000 RPM and go WOT, the car will accelerate, but not smoothly. From 2 to 3 grand it feels good then after that it's like I have 50 more HP. And its a quick change.

In higher gears it takes longer for the "kick" in HP to be noticed. It kinda reminds me of a V8's carb being out of adjustment, like you hit the gas an get baaa...ba....bup....bup.ba.ba.a.....BWAAAAAA shift BWAAAAAAAAAA.

If I stay on it its fine. Like rolling along in first at quater throttle, go WOT, heasitate for a sec then pull hard through the rest of the gears as long as no fuel cut till I let off. :1zhelp:

 

[Nomad707]

how does it idle?

have you checked your timing?

 

[Poodles]

timing, spark, or not warmed up enough (if it's not warmed up, it will hickup when floored)

 

[jdub]

Check your fuel pressure and your vac lines.
(in addition to timing, plugs & wires)

 

[kawkoretsx]

The car is warm , idles fine, starts fine , vac lines good (only has three), and I set timing @10 degrees BTDC. I'm going to double check for codes, timing and fuel press today. So nobody thinks its the knock sensors working

 

[jdub]

Ok...so what did you remove to have only 3 vac lines?

The knock sensors will retard timing only when they sense knock in one or more cylinders. If you have knock when you describe (low rpm), something else is wrong.

Have you checked for codes? Not all codes will cause the CEL to stay on.

 

[kawkoretsx]

Didn't know the CEL won't always be on for codes being stored, check that this weekend. Removed both the EGR and Fuel pressure VSV's (Aeromotive FPR and the Japanese engine didn't come with a EGR valve).Also got rid of the heater valve on the fire wall. I only have vac. going to the FPR, BOV, boost gauge and the brake power booster (whoops four). What would be a good setting for the AFPR, I'm running between 10 and 12 pounds.

The car has done this for a long time. I noticed tonight that in third gear holding the throttle just enough to slowly accelerate, starting at 2,000 RPM, when the car hits 3,500 it starts to miss a bit. Holding the throttle at the same position throughout, once it hits 4,000RPM it clears up and has noticeably more power.

 

[GuNDeZZZ]

4 vac lines show me a pic lol

 

[kawkoretsx]

Power booster to stock location. Boost gauge to the small nipple (hehe...nipple) at the back of the manifold (near firewall, below powerbooster banjo bolt) SHit theres five forgot about charcoal canister. Anyway FPR and BOV run into a tee at the big nipple on the front of the manifold. Oh yeah got rid or the power steering idle up too. Charcoal canister to throttle body. That's it.

 

[jdub]

I run 27 psi (vac on) on the AFPR...that's with a Lex AFM/550 injectors.
I think we have a winner

Here's what it should be:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=73

 

[kawkoretsx]

I want it slightly above stock I thinck for the added boost. I know its not alot of added boost but more boost more fuel right?

 

[jdub]

You're running 10-12 psi...that's less than half of stock fuel pressure (assuming vac line attached). The ECU will compensate for a small amount of added boost...if you are hitting fuel cut, that's not a small amount.

What boost are you running?
What size injectors?
Stock AFM?
Are you running any piggyback fuel controller like a SAFC?

 

[kawkoretsx]

10-12 pounds of boost, fuel pressure is at 30pounds with vac attached, 40 with no vac. Stock injectors, brand new AFM and no piggybacks. I have a HKS FCD but don't think I'm going to install it. I hit fuel cut all the time, I try to stay out of fual cut but sometimes I can't watch my boost gauge (autometer mechanical on steering colum) and get my boost up to 12 pounds then BOOM...fuel cut.

 

[jdub]

Turn your boost down....10 psi.

Drop your fuel pressure to 25 psi w/ vac on.

Dump the FCD...get a MAFT Pro. You can go to speed density, control fuel and boost. Upgrade injectors to RC 550's. Once you do that, I would hold boost at ~14 psi considering you have a stock composite HG.