It's easy to do just leave the coolant lines hooked up, disconnect the linkage, and what ever else would keep it from being flipped over on the upper intake manifold.
Could just be the calibration of your meter, you need a really good one to accuratly measure resistance that small, I would guess that they are all pretty close that they are OK. CRE or JJ can probably confirm or not.
Knock sensor will retard the timing. Sounds like you found your problem, the AFM. Post in the WTB section, might find one, in fact I have one but I'm thinking of tearing out all this Maft-Pro stuff and putting it back in............not. :)
About the same as bleeding brakes. Have someone pump the clutch pedal, then hold pressure on it, open the bleeder screw a little to let out the air, do not release the pedal until the screw is closed, and repeat. Make sure you don't run out of fluid or you'll have to do it again.
I had the almost the same thing happen to me and it ended up being there wasn't enough fluid in the master, the little float thing in there looked like it still had fluid but there wasn't. So if you are sure that you blead it right are you sure the fluid level is ok? If so try bleeding it again...
Are you sure the clutch plate was put on right? The springs face towards the tranny I think, if it was new it should have had a marking on it to say "flywheel side" or something to that effect.
Those look like Pacesetters, what I have. There is a thread here in the NA section on headers probably a couple pages back. Also check out the stickies at the top of the NA section.
Yeah won't run with out that "stock air flow" thing, unless you're SD Maft-Pro.
Before I went that route I had a hard pipe from the first accordian pipe to the last one after the AFM, that's about all you can do with it. It elimates the big air canister. And you can put a aftermarket air...
Are you sure it only has 50k on it? I had 125k on mine never used a drop.
What's your plugs look like, have you done a compression test or leak down test?
It's on the drivers side under the intake manifold. They screw in, if I remember right they have a release on the connector you have to push on to release the wire.
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