code 31 and running rich

supraman508

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Sep 19, 2007
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Iv'e should of realize that i think the supra is running rich is do to a code 31.My air flo sensor may have a short or in the wires that go to the air flo plug connector.My friend used his ohm meter and he said the meter is fine but for some reason the 31 comes up.somehow i will figure it out.hopefully before i die:cry:
 

supraman508

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Sep 19, 2007
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CRE;1107579 said:
Okay, so you've tested the meter. Have you tested the wiring?
you mean the harnes part that connects to the afm.no i have'nt.plus when my fan chopped off the plug i think it messed the timing alittle so i adjusted that.How would i test the wires with a ohm meter?
 
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CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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D'oh, wrong thread.

For you, disconnect the harness at the ECu and test the pins at the AFM harness connector to see if you get signal across any. I'm betting you've got a short or a break in the wiring.

A cut harness isn't going to change your timing... not once it's fixed anyway. Fix the harness, clear the codes and your timing should be right where it was before.
 

supraman508

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CRE;1107798 said:
D'oh, wrong thread.

For you, disconnect the harness at the ECu and test the pins at the AFM harness connector to see if you get signal across any. I'm betting you've got a short or a break in the wiring.

A cut harness isn't going to change your timing... not once it's fixed anyway. Fix the harness, clear the codes and your timing should be right where it was before.
I'll do my best and sorry for any inconvenience
 

88suprajosh

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Jul 17, 2008
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They will also throw that code if the flapper door does not move free. When the engine bay gets warm the flapper has a tendency to stick.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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88suprajosh;1108059 said:
They will also throw that code if the flapper door does not move free. When the engine bay gets warm the flapper has a tendency to stick.

It shouldn't "stick".
 

BLACKCAT

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May 24, 2007
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I am tinkering with a 7M Cressida AFM at the moment.
It could stick if it has a large buildup of crap around the surfaces of the flapper or if its way out of alignment.
 

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supraman508

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Sep 19, 2007
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CRE;1110116 said:
Not too surprising. It is after all a wear component.
Sometimes the easiest things can be the hardest for some people to figure out like me.For example the only code that i have showing up is the code 31,air flow signal,so i tested it and no reading which i'm sure that i'll have to get a new one.Buy the way would a bad knock sensor give out a code and if your driving and the afm is about to die could that make your vehicle smoke and burn rich?
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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supraman508;1110279 said:
Sometimes the easiest things can be the hardest for some people to figure out like me.For example the only code that i have showing up is the code 31,air flow signal,so i tested it and no reading which i'm sure that i'll have to get a new one.Buy the way would a bad knock sensor give out a code and if your driving and the afm is about to die could that make your vehicle smoke and burn rich?
Knock sensor will retard the timing. Sounds like you found your problem, the AFM. Post in the WTB section, might find one, in fact I have one but I'm thinking of tearing out all this Maft-Pro stuff and putting it back in............not. :)
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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AJ'S 88NA;1110559 said:
I have one but I'm thinking of tearing out all this Maft-Pro stuff and putting it back in............not. :)

You wouldn't... you wouldn't dare. I would so hunt you down and take away your keys.
 

supraman508

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AJ'S 88NA;1110559 said:
Knock sensor will retard the timing. Sounds like you found your problem, the AFM. Post in the WTB section, might find one, in fact I have one but I'm thinking of tearing out all this Maft-Pro stuff and putting it back in............not. :)
I take back what i said about the afm.I checked it the right way and i'm getting a resistance reading.It told me in the t.s.r.m to check Vs-E2,and the reading should be between 20-1,200 fully open and the reading was 245,so i guess thats good.Fully closed the reading should be between 20-600 and my reading was 260.Next i checked my injectors and the reading for them were 1-3.5,2-3.6,3-3.4,4-3.4,5-3.4,6-3.4,but i'm confused do to t.s.t.m tells me that the injectors reading should be between 1.8-3.4.now i know that the some of them are alittle over 3.4,is that a bad thing and they need to be replaced if the injectors are alittle over?
 

AJ'S 88NA

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supraman508;1111269 said:
I take back what i said about the afm.I checked it the right way and i'm getting a resistance reading.It told me in the t.s.r.m to check Vs-E2,and the reading should be between 20-1,200 fully open and the reading was 245,so i guess thats good.Fully closed the reading should be between 20-600 and my reading was 260.Next i checked my injectors and the reading for them were 1-3.5,2-3.6,3-3.4,4-3.4,5-3.4,6-3.4,but i'm confused do to t.s.t.m tells me that the injectors reading should be between 1.8-3.4.now i know that the some of them are alittle over 3.4,is that a bad thing and they need to be replaced if the injectors are alittle over?
Could just be the calibration of your meter, you need a really good one to accuratly measure resistance that small, I would guess that they are all pretty close that they are OK. CRE or JJ can probably confirm or not.
 

supraman508

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Sep 19, 2007
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jetjock;1111293 said:
Having trouble with that space bar again? Your injectors are fine, at least electrically. As for the AFM I've said it many times: The ECU does not deal in resistance...
thanks for the final word on my injectors atleast i don't have to worry about them for now.I tried another inspection which is inspecting the high tension cords on page IG-6 in the t.s.r.m for checking the high tension cords to where you would take your ohmmeter and connect one of the connectors to the distributor cap and the other at the end of the spark-plug cap.The reading should be 25,which i had no reading.I disconected the spark-plug from the distributor cap and put both connections on each end of the wire and it gave me a reading,but when the plug wire was connected to the distributor cap and did the reading their was none.I think i'm gona have to get a new cap what do you think MR CRE
 

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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hey JJ im on my second afm in a week. wires are all good from ecu to connector

can the ecu fry them? is there any way to figure out if the ecu is the culprit other then trying a new ecu?
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
There's no way for the ECU to fry an AFM. The ampacity simply isn't there because the current to it is limited inside the ECU. I'm guessing your AFM(s) were already worn. Read used. Not the best way to go when dealing with a vane unit. That said autopsies might have been helpful....many mysteries can be solved by learning the manner in which something failed.