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probably the sender... unless its clogged and you really have that high of pressare all the time... the sender is on the passenger side towards the front of the block under a black boot/cover.

could you post a picture of where its leaking from the brake booster?

you'd have to pull the compressor housing off and measure it as they came in lots of different trims. but you didnt search at all because you would have found the thread i made about them not that long ago... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73092

it does affect it, but you should be more concerned with the thickness of the head gasket... if you want all out power. get a 1.2mm HKS.

got my 3mm HKS head gasket in... not sure if i like it or not. but it got put on. haha oil pump in. oil hose in. oil pick up in. rear main seal in. front case in thermostat housing in with thermostat neck head torqued down egr cooler plate on valve covers on with new bolts and crush...

get a new o2 sensor then... lol and i can easily get over 350 on the highway... but 75% of my driving is street/city, so its 'ok', i can get almost 300-350 in the city... rebuilt engine new plugs and wires 5w30 castrol gutted cat, and intake that eliminates the silencer. and that...

hes in socal below LA.

you should do a compression check... sounds like your blowing oil out your vavle covers.

check turbo for shaft play.

1. if its not that bad why did you even bother to ask, sounds like you already know what to do... if its just surface just clean it, and spray some por15 on it. 3. original? i can only imagine what living with you would be like... theres no sense in that as your probably going to have to...

hes stated that he cant afford to do the whole sha bang. hes just doing a BHG job, you can just clean the block off, make sure its flat, and if its flat then awesome, but if its not, then you got problems... but you might as well get the head stuff taken care of, valve guid seals, valve seats...

WRONG section... 1. time and money with lots of sheet metal 2. its not very likely... 3. just paint yours... 4. ebay

tial bov? you cant just slap one of those on our cars... have to recirculate. and yes, you could do the studs if you leave the block in the car, i think you just have to jack it up towards the front of the car... its possible and there are ways. theres no point for a 5 angle vavle job...

i have a few questions though... why do a 5 angle vavle job? i didnt think that was even beneficial for our heads? and its not the head gasket that was bad, it was the torque spec, so if your head gasket has lasted this one, i would just reuse an oem one with some arp head studs. that way you...

lol. wish everything was that easy... i dont even have my oil pan on yet...

seems like ALL of the early "bolt on" turbos had some issues... lol im sure they've all been fixed now since turbo companys got tired of rebuilding turbos for stupid reasons! i found some pictures of the hotside, and from what i can tell, the divider plate just needs to be moved up a little...

please enlightne me on this 500 mile reubild process :sarcasm: im sitting here comparing the side view of 3 different BIC downpipes, if its different, it has to be as little as little can get, cause its the exact same pieces for all three downpipes... if its just the little seperate i have to...

i just looked at the sp bolt on turbos... and if there numbers are true, then im defintaley thinkin about those turbos, 490hp at 18psi? thats nuts! it would be the last turbo i buy, but, does it bolt onto the oem downpipe? because i cant find any pictures of the exhaust turbine...

if your spending 5k to rebuild a motor, i hope to god its getting forged internals with that... im UNDER 3k and i have forged internals, fully balanced, arp main studs, arp head studs, im talkin i went all out. you can do an OEM rebuild for EASILY under 3k as it wont need that much machine work...

boost leakkkkk you can run your car with out an o2 and knock sensors... any mods?