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how many steps are there again? i forgot? like 10? i go up in 600rpm increments from 800 so... 800 1400 2000 2600 3200 3800 4400 5000 5600 6200 6800 i like to keep the steps up consistant as i find it easier to tune that way, because if you go from 800 to 2000, its a large...

was it torqued down though?

when you set 5% at 2k and 10% and 3k, it creates a 'wave' between the 5% and 10% when you accelerate from 2k to 3k. i hope that makes sense. basically your tuning everything, not just the rpm thats on there. i tune from 800-6500

when it idles at 800-900rpm, you would never know... but even at 700ish its not that noticable, and thats with the cam gears zeroed out! whats your 1j pushin out? and im tuning on safc's with widebands... nothing very fancy there. haha. its just time consuming more than anything,

with the stock 9v of power to a 255 it was... but with 12v that walbro is kickin! haha considering two of my friends are pushing almost 400hp ish... one has a v-trim with 21psi, and my other friend has 20psi with a 16g... neither one have ANY of those problems... lol now, i do know a few...

its what im gonna be running... just wish i would have gotten the tops of my pistons ceramic coated... would have been a nice little extra feature. i dont plan on going over 500hp though, so im not worried.

considering i've built 3 of them now. and this one has 1g big rods, along with bc 272's, cam gears, extreme psi race intercooler kit, ceramic coated turbo, manifold, and o2, along with a full 3'' megan racing exhaust. i have his 16g set to 20psi and it rips like a fuckin bat out of hell on...

14.6 is fine... because were using an safc i cant just a perfect 14.6 consantly... so it wanders a little between 14 and 15... and its been fixed now, his wideband wasnt even registering on the lean side because it was so lean when we started it with OEM wiring... but the 12v to the pump it...

LOL. and go read the back of the can.. its in 200, 300, and 400 degree temps. where the hell are you going to get an oven thats going to heat an object to 1000 degrees? OR you can heat cycle the engine... run for 30mines, let cool down, run for 30mins let cool down, and then run it...

hasnt it been said that OEM rods are shot peened? lol and theres no way that an OEM rod can be stronger than a aftermarket rod due to the metallurgyof the aftermarket rods, there a completely different procedure to make them, which is why we buy them. and isnt the weakest point of the OEM...

i thought about the white, but then i was like nah... just gonna go red/amber. and fuck HID's... i get BLINDED by them by EVERY single OEM car that has em... they point RIGHT into my car since im lowered... HID's are the dumbest thing ever...

im still going to do exhaust, intercooler and 2.5 pipes, bov, MBC, and other stuff just to get it to where i want, but im not going to go crazy. you can still get good gas milage if not better gas milage on a properly tuned car.

thats what i thought... but the place has been in business for like 30 years, and they do this one shops drag car, so i didnt really question it... it was on my friends car anyways. just wondering though... how much would you want for.. Turbo cold side and hot side exhaust manifold...

OR just put a elbow in there to connect the two as its only fully open when the heater is on. i can find you one in the junkyard in 15mins... lol

but i talked to the guy, and they used a ceramic "primer" so to speak... it was a base coat, that they etch afterwards or something, and THEN the spray the black ceramic coat on top of that, so they said its still ceramic coated, just not with color... i didnt care in the end as it was still...