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without the car running, your voltage is lower to the pump. did you bypass or drill out the J tube on the hardline return?

you dont have money to insure it, but you want to build it into a race car? if you want to race just to have fun, throw some good quality pads on there and be done with it.

i solder everything i do. but then again, thats what i do. its a lot easier to screw up crimps than it is solder for the average guy. the hardest part about soldering the clips is usually the copper wire is fairly oxidized. you'll have to clean it and use a bunch of flux to get the solder...

that has 6 bolts on top, thought that is what you were talking about. can you take a pic or find a link on ebay? just curious what you have.

correct, doesnt matter. but its easy to get #5 and #6 crossed if you arent paying attention. any codes? what is vac at idle?

i like to think our injectors are top notch. in the 5-6yrs we have been selling precision injectors we have yet to have one come back failed. they are a little more expensive at $420/set (580cc-880cc) but they are pre tested, sold in matched sets, and have a 1yr warranty. rc makes nice...

thanks matt dont forget about the track on friday! i know you guys are excited about the dyno, cruise and cookout, but we usually have a good time at the track as well!

like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Type-S-Blow-Off-Valve-Red-2-5-Adapter-Flange-Pipe_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ014QQitemZ330177608583QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

you guys that are meeting in lex, are you just going to meet us at the dyno? matt- please update the attendance list

100% if you run more octane than required, you LOSE hp. you only want to run as much octane as the motor needs. sure, for a safety margin you can go over that, but at the expense of power. people that feel a difference using higher octane gas have a good imagination or the car wasnt...

honestly, thats fairly normal. if you have a bov large enough to handle high boost, it is going to have a fairly stiff spring in it. stiff springs are not sensitive enough to open at such a low psi. you can loosen the bov, where it will open that low, but then it can open under higher boost...

like jon said, adjust and reference with the vac line off the afpr. if you dont like to take the line off and on, just jumper +B and Fp in the diag box without the car running. why do you have to add +2? it would be easier if you mapped out your approx a/f per rpm, then your corrections...

there is a marathon gas station directly across the street from the church. there is also a BP and a cheveron right down the road. hope you can make it mk3! since you are in lex, you wouldnt have to come to our meeting place in louisville. thats mostly for the local guys and people coming...

oh c'mon kyle. its just a few hoses. you have 18 days! excuses are the shackles of the uncommitted sorry to hear about your problems tho. good luck getting it fixed. btw, if it was the lower hose, use one from a 5m. its shorter and more of a direct shot. none of the loopy loops like...

tim- i understand your points, and taken. i was just saying some options and if it were for me the only things i might change. the nhra rule book i have says ms needs to be 1 3/4" OD x 0.118 wall. cm needs to be 1 3/4 OD x 0.083 wall. this is for >10.00. <9.99 needs to step up to 1 5/8...

did you happen to buy that from supraman502? either way, his had that and we took it apart to look at it, then did some research. apparently, t'netics uses it as a combonation filter and restrictor. couldnt confirm with t'netics, but we left it alone.

yes that will work too. but as often as i swap 02 sensors, they seem to strip out fairly easily. maybe its just the ones ive seen were cheap quality or something.

looks good man. i would have preferred swing outs, but thats just me. im not a little guy to be climbing in and out of a jungle gym. i would also like to have some reward bars to tie in the back corners of the hatch. not really for safety per se, but would help to stiffen up that area...

alright, sounds good. your best bet honestly would be to get it on friday if possible. they are only about 15-20min from the track we are going to. you could get it sat after the meet, but in case you didnt know they are about 100 miles from the dyno. wasnt sure if you knew they were that...

lol kurt. yeah its big enough that they have bus services to the parking lots and even have exit numbers off the entrance. UPDATE: just spoke to tony at the dyno shop. with 10 people he wants to start around 10am. that will allow a lunch break between the dyno sessions, and enough time to...