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lol you are worse than me! when i went to chi2k7 it was the first time id had my car at a supra meet since lou2k5. chris- if you pick up a motor from mike how are you going to get it home? you dont live too far from mom's house (leitchfield) and i might be able to bring it down if you need...

yeah thats what i was saying. unscrew the narrowband sensor, screw in the wideband in its place. at wot you dont need the narrowband anyway. sounds like you went to building anyway.

there are 2 more guys coming. wht87t and blu87t. also, you didnt added element's bro i think thats about it for the dyno. some people might change their mind and decide to dyno. should be enough time for that, i just needed an idea of about how many so we can determine a start time...

in my opinion, i believe an aftermarket water temp gauge is a must if you really want to know what is going on with your coolant system. using the stock gauge is like looking at the sun to figure out what time it is.

wideband and narrow band 02 are standard size. if you are tuning why not just swap the wb in place of the narrowband?

you may consider k-sport coilovers. you can adjust the dampen/compression, and huge range of spring rates available. even have softer than stock. removing the front sway bar will help with weight transfer as well.

so you are running full power thru the switch? or are you running the flex-a-lite control box?

scrothe makes a dot legal harness. they are spendy tho. other than that, i know of no other dot legal harnesses.

yeah 2 will fit, but even still takes a little convincing. 3, i have no idea how. but hope it works out for you. i wouldnt recommend anyone grinding on their fuel tank. sparks + gas fumes = kaboom. yes, there is a way you can do it. but i wouldnt be comfortable telling someone- yeah...

yep, sounds like too much current draw and pulling the voltage down on the fuel pump. what is your wiring setup and what fans?

it could be after playing around it managed to get itself back in timing. they usually dont do that without some help tho. most likely it does sound like the mode switch. when this is bad, or going bad the contacts make intermittent connection. oftentimes people would send it in for not...

sounds good. are you thinking about dynoing? quin- hope you can make it

looking at approx 11am-noon. we may move it to 10-11am if there are more than 10 people. since we are for sure going to have 5+, there will be 2 guys working the dyno. that means approx 2-3 cars an hour. say we have 10 cars, it will be approx 3-5hrs at the dyno. ive heard from almost...

since you are here, please update the attendance list. lil red supra isnt going to dyno, and isnt listed in the attendance section. please take off from dyno and add to attendance. ive updated the dyno list on the other thread. please add shmuggums90, silvershadow, jetfixr to possible...

also known as- i dont plan on children belt. dr is right, and better than that i wouldnt run a harness without a roll bar. in a roll over crash you would be crushed.

good luck, hope you can make it.

12.2 is ok. i prefer 11.8 range, but under 12.5 you are ok. id suspect your fuel pump isnt keeping up. 17psi and 550's should be more than enough fuel for the turbo you are running. you may also for the time being take the lex afm back off. drill out the little plug over the factory...

he is welcome to come

ive fixed a bunch of these. usually either the mode switch (tells the processor if there is a cd in the unit, if its loading, or if its ejecting. if it isnt the mode switch, most likely the cd mech is out of time. imagine having the cam gears out of place with the crank. same kinda deal...

does your vac stay the same at both points? if the vac varies, that would explain it. if not, could be the fuel pump, or the valve inside the fpr is sticking. the higher the boost, the higher the fuel pressure, i.e. the further the valve moves. then it doesnt "reset" to where it was before.