Yeah the time that I probably saved by replacing them both was worth spending the extra money to me. Plus my friend has a lift so it made changing the slave much easier. And of course time is money.
One common way to know if it is your clutch master is to pull back the carpet in the drives side floor where the clutch petal is located and check to see if there is any fluid behind the carpet. I had a similar problem and found fluid behind the carpet, so I just replaced both the clutch master...
I would have to agree there. Plus if money is an issue right now you would be better off buying larger injectors, fp, and fpr first when funds are available. Also if you have the car tuned with the stock injectors you will have to do it all over again once you purchase larger ones. Which means...
I have been doing some reading while waiting on replies and found that 4 thousands is the maximum piston to cylinder wall clearance for JE pistons. So at minimum the block will need honed correct? I guess the only reason that I was really thinking of going with the other block is because it is...
Well I've been told that since the guy was unable to provide me with any info on the machine work that was done to the engine I should just use a different block since its been bored .40 over already to insure proper piston to cylinder wall clearance . Plus I have two extra blocks
Hey guys I'm getting ready to do my first rebuild ever and need a little help. I would like to know whats the cost I would be looking at for parts and machine work. Also when I take the parts to the machine shop is there anything that I should know to tell the shop. For example proper piston to...
Ok my friend just came by and he said that he is about 100% sure that its a rod knock. Did not have his stethescope so unsure which one that it is. He suggested pulling the pan and changing the rod bearings. He said you have nothing to loose but it might get me by until I finish my rebuild...
I have friend that is coming over later with a stethescope to confirm. You can't here it at all at idle. Just when you slowly push the accelerator or push it hard to 4k RPM. If you just tap the gas up to about 3k you can't hear it either.
So I just took my 88 turbo to the dyno about two weeks ago. Before I took the car I changed the oil using 6 quarts of castrol full synthetic. Over the last two weeks I noticed that the car was blowing white smoke at cold start and also under high boost. I thought that it could be the turbo...
No problem. Also if you plan on taking your car to the dyno they will be able to adjust timing for you anyway. So if you want to save money and stay with a piggy back. I would go with a Maft Pro. A lot of people use them for the supra so you will be able to get any support that you may need...
Well if your confident that they can tune your car with a map-ecu2 and your happy with the price that they gave you. Then go for it. I was just telling you the experience that I have had with it so far. In your first post you asked is it worth it and I say no. Not for $750 plus $1000 to tune...
Well I've ran both 18" and now 17" and I love how much better traction, and ride comfort I get out of the 17" vs. 18". In my opinion it is a perfect balance of rubber and wheel. But if your completely stuck on going with 18" or 19" I would go with 18" wheels. Comfort, Traction, Price, Clearance.
You said earlier that you were running SAFCII correct. Is the reason that you want to switch piggy backs because you are changing or adding mods or for the fact that you can fine tune with the map-ecu2 much better. Is the car running good currently. If so why change to a different piggy back...
I have a map-ecu on my 88 turbo and it worked pretty good for the most part. I just got it back from the dyno 5 days ago and it made 341hp at 14psi on a dyno dynamics with a 60-1. However, there are some added features on the map-ecu 2 like base timing display logging, as well as knock sensor...
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