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I call bullshit on this one. Anything that my oil FILTER isn't catching, I'm not worried about. It's called a filter for a reason.

IMO, it depends... are you using a damped shifter, or one of the mods / short shifters that removes the damping? I've never felt a smooth R154 that was undamped.

If you've changed the seals, then it'll be the glass seal itself. If you're exceptionally lucky, you can pull the surrounding moldings, seal it with silicone, and put the moldings back. If you're NOT exceptionally lucky, you'll destroy your moldings, and the silicone won't seal it either.

There is no way to make a 2J manifold fit the 7M without a LOT of fab work. It's cheaper to buy a purpose built one. This has been tried several times, and never been finished satisfactorily.

Well, that tosses out my theory!

The reason shows split their classes the way they do has nothing to do with whether your car is stock. It's because of two things - enforcement and participation. On the enforcement front, can you imagine the time and manpower it would take to pull the intake pipe and inspect the wheel on...

Is the bearing seized? Or is the inner race just stuck on the input shaft?

Fastest way to get it off that I've found without a puller is to use it. Damn thing falls off right away.

Try pinging SM first, see if that works.

Woot! Just got a fancy new toaster, too.

- Foot pedal for my PC. - Some puzzles. I like puzzles. - Serenity T-shirt - A bunch of kitchen tools... new peelers, new cheese grater, carbon steel wok, some new wooden spoons to replace the ones that have seen action inside the dishwasher a couple too many times - New riding jersey

Merry Christmas everyone... someone needs to start the usual loot pictures thread!

Ya, that's the clip I'm talking about... I've never liked trying to get 'em with pliers, I always seem to mess up the seat upholstery.

I don't have those seats anymore to take a picture of, I'm afraid. As I recall, I wrap a rag around the base of the knob and work it back and forth to pry the clip out.

Been a while, but as I recall the wheels have a C-clip that needs to be removed. The head rest is a bit tougher, you need to remove the back, then peel back the seat skin a bit and unbolt the headrest supports from the lower seat. Be careful with the plastic pieces on the headrest support...

Errr... you do realize that race car engines live FAR shorter lives than street cars, right? Race engines only care about enough longevity to finish the race.

Hmm... lessee here... probably awful dialog / acting / story. On the other hand, hot cars, hot girls, hot stunts, and knowing these guys big crashes and explosions. I'm in. Furthermore, I've seen the first 4, I'm already too far invested to back out now!

That's very reasonable numbers for a 64mm turbo. Fuel rail is fine, you might get some benefit from bigger lines to it though.

You're absolutely right. Worse, the frames were so weak that the doors would jam closed at the same time. Luckily, I was never in an accident in that car, because if I was, and I survived, I'd probably still be in the burn ward now, some 25 years later.

I bought a 1977 Ford Pinto for $50. There was so much rust in the fuel tank that it would plug the fuel filter every 50 miles or so, and I'd have to pull over, remove the filter, wash it out with methyl hydrate, and put it back in. As I recall it was painted sky blue with a roller and brush, too.