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So long as the other end hasn't been modified that tube is good, i.e. it's still getting vacuum from the original location. The goal is to just get vacuum that is not switched, the maze of vacuum hoses under and around the intake plenum can be tricky at first. You just don't want to accidently...

Hard to say without seeing the other end. Basically all you need is that vacuum source to be behind the throttle plate, but not behind any VSV's. The port right behind the intake plenum is perfect, as well as the vacuum port in the front of the intake plenum if you've got an adapter.

Wastegate has no direct effect on FCO's boost level. Is this a custom DDP or BIC DDP? If the wastegate dump tube was too small or restrictive somehow it could cause overboosting. Other then that all that a wastegate could do is stick shut or not open enough and cause overboosting. Or stay...

Don't know anything about your car, so its hard to help with the boost controller problem. What size turbo, intercooler, exhaust, intake, Profec B or Profec B Spec II? I've been running 16-20psi on a 57 trim CT/ with my SSQV for about 3 years now with no problems.

Vf does not tell you if you're running rich or lean. It tells you what the ECU is doing to compensate for fuel. The only sure fire method is with a wideband O2, or an EGT will give you a rough estimate. Even the stock O2 reading will be more accurate then Vf. If you don't have an EGT or WBO2...

They usually come off in one piece if they aren't too old. It's when they stick to metal and tear that you've got problems, or when they are hard and brittle...

The beauty of the DDP is it's no louder then a normal downpipe until you boost it, and if you reroute the ddp it won't be louder then a regular dp. I got used to the sound of externally vented wastegate pretty quick, I'm actually wishing it was louder. 28 rwhp gain over a normal 3" dp...

You shouldn't even need loctite if you torque them properly.

Check engine error codes http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html How long since last tune up?

A micrometer is also required to know what thickness is of the shims you are removing as well as to verify you're putting the correct size back in.. Make sure you write down all the numbers in a chart. It's easier to figure the proper size with a chart to compare to the TSRM chart. Your...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_107.html read the TSRM

Use a tripod. They are a pain to lug around and learn how to use properly but once you do you won't have any ruined shots from blurryness. Even a cheap tripod off ebay is better then your hand, no matter how steady you think you are you can't beat a tripod. nice shots otherwise btw :)

I have been enjoying my Tein Flex's for just over 2 years now. Since I daily drive my Supra I needed something that could be somewhat soft on these rough roads, yet still get firm when I wanted to play. Tein Flex are 32 way adjustable. Seriously though that amount of adjustability is useless...

I watched a Geo Metro owner replace his motor a few years ago. He didn't need a engine hoist for anything. He simply lifted the block out by himself and put it back in by himself.

It's pretty rare for the oil pump to fail. Usually what I see is someone runs their 7m low on oil or runs with dirty oil and it spins a bearing. The bearing material enters the oil pump and eats it up. If the motor is out it's definitely a good idea to replace the oil pump, but I wouldn't...

SRT4 with stage 1 Mopar, 25 shot of NOS, slicks and basic intake/exhaust mods runs around low 13's high 12's. I raced one a year ago and beat him, but barely. He took me out the hole, but I reeled him in. They appear to be fun cheap cars if you can stomach FWD, or everyone saying "its still...

I liked that post so much it became part of my signature...

Could be any number of things from hydraulics to your clutch sticking on the spline. The grinding was probably the starter trying to spin the motor over. Best way to solve the mystery is to tear it apart and look for clues.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_073.html

Leave the gain at 0 until you know how the boost curve is going to react. Adjust you low set to whatever boost level you want and try a couple 3rd or 4th gear pulls as high in the RPM band as you can. If you're getting the boost level you want, start working on the gain to get the desired...