I've been very happy with my ACT "street" clutch. It's basically an organic disc with an upgraded pressure plate. Good for ~450ft/lbs as I recall. Spec is another good brand from what I've heard, no first hand experience with them yet.
The lightweight flywheel doesn't change the driving...
Yes, but you do realize we need a term to separate the different suspension upgrades. It aids communication. One does not say "I have Tein springs and struts" as it conveys only basic information.
I have yet to find a decent strut for the MK3 that has a large body and is valved properly...
Variations in Toyota's leather as well as how long the car sat in the sun can definitely make some shadow gray appear black. However there is no black interior MK3, never was. The shadow gray just looks very very dark on some panels, especially the seats.
Repeat: no black interior MK3's
There's no immediate danger from a little oil making its way into the combustion chamber. Over time however it will build up carbon inside the motor, and as such a catch can is a good idea. If you do decide to use a catch can or dump PCV to the ground, take your intercooler off and run some...
Depends on the coilover really. A cheap ebay/DIY coilover's only advantage is the height adjustment. A good coilover like Tein has a larger strut body for a stronger strut, better valving, more reliability, etc. The ability to custom dial in any height and any spring stiffness is very useful...
You could check the valve clearances without removing the head or do a leakdown test...but that's about it. I'd take the head off and bring it somewhere to get pressure tested, could just be a bent/leaky valve, valve stem seal, etc.
I enjoyed the Tokico blue's on my N/A and turbo. Drove around on them for 5 years or so with no problems. Sold them a year or two ago and they're still working on the new owners car. They were solid and matched the spring rate of the Tokico springs quite well.
Upgraded to coilovers...
I've seen a couple people strip those stock head bolts, even with perfect tool to bolt contact. Anyway we did exactly like gixxer750 said with a large drill bit. Once the tension of the head bolt pressing the head to the block is gone you can unscrew whats left of it by hand.
Boost spike is when your boost shoots up past the desired amount and then quickly settles back down. Your boost should come on quickly, but only to your desired amount. A spike can cause you to hit FCO, run lean, blow off intercooler hoses, basically anything that could come from boosting...
Try the gain at 0, then work up 1-2 units at a time. On most boost controllers the gain (or equivelant) is pretty touchy. On my car for example, 5 was the perfect gain on my Profec e-01. Other then that, the start boost is only useful for the initial boost, if set incorrectly it will cause...
Hmm, you could possibly have a small boost leak which is causing slower spool. I'm assuming since you've got a wideband that you have your A/F's somewhat reasonable. Could also just be a tuning issue with the Profec B Spec II, I haven't gotten the chance to tune one myself yet but from what...
Was your BIC DDP specifically made for your turbo? The bolt pattern on your turbo can be the same but that doesn't necessarily mean the wastegate is in the exact same location or even opens in the same direction. That could definitely be interfering with its operation. A fairly easy way to...
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