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You're wasting a lot of power by not running a standalone on your setup. The stock ECU is ok with piggybacks at medium power levels but it's deficiencies are quickly apparent at higher boost levels. The said the e-Manage Ultimate won't be that hard to get running and would be your next best...

Yes PPS adds no assist at highway speeds. Power steering is only needed at low speeds, at high speeds you won't even notice its absence.

No, boost leaks wont cause overheating. What do you mean by "radiator was nearly boiling"? You can't see inside the radiator, so what are you basing this on? Was it making noise, was the upper radiator hose firm, etc.

You can actually still purchase the dip stick from Toyota and it's surprisingly cheap. I got a new one for around $10.

Fuel pump relay is on the passenger side near the ABS motor. http://www.ma70.com/bishop92t/techtips/7mlayout.jpg

This isn't 100% but usually code 51 is TPS alignment meaning the TPS is still good. Code 41 typically is bad TPS. It can get kind of tricky with previous owners or mechanics adjusting pieces on the throttle that were not meant to be adjusted.

Yes I've run the 57 trim at stock boost before, but never with a wideband. Just EGT gauge. EGT's don't get hot until you turn the boost up.

Looks like a Tanabe. Damn cheap for just a basic downpipe. 12 hp from a downpipe is pretty weak though. The BIC DDP is around a 75hp gain as I recall.

That's really a question you should ask yourself. Even a good manual steering rack will be harder to turn, but definitely more precise steering and less to break. More then likely your high pressure line was leaking and finally let go. As I recall it's a pretty expensive piece $100-200 from...

I'm looking over the GEMU (mmm acronyms) instruction manual and it appears they still have the same application I copied for the Eman blue (3000GT). It also looks like the same wire color scheme was used so as far as wiring goes the GEMU and GEMB are identical. Wish I had time these days to...

Shipping the head is no problem, wrap it up in buble wrap in a decent sized box. Don't use packing peanuts unless you plan on taping up all the ports. I'd leave the cams and cam covers on for shipping, simply to keep the shims in order, but you could strip it bare. I would use a separate box...

Boost isn't a factor for determing danger level to a motor. It's actually air flow that's the important factor. Since unfortuantely we have no easy way to measure that, the factors we use are the size of the turbo and the modifications to determine the safety of boost. 20psi on a stock CT-26...

Ceramic coatings will help, but they don't hold in heat perfectly. As visually criminal as it may be, a ceramic coat with some heat wrap would be a good combination especially on the exhaust side.

Your code 52 will definitely sap your power. Start by diagnosing your knock sensors. Make sure you didn't accidently unplug or break them during your HG swap. If they're still plugged in then you probably have to rewire your knock sensors to make that code go away and restore your power...

The Supra doesn't have a crank angle sensor. 12 is RPM signal, typically the distributor or distributor wiring. 14 is ignition signal, typically coil, ignitor, or wiring. If the motor isn't turning over then it's a starter problem with a 99% probability of the starter contacts being the...

I wouldn't recommend Centerforce as I had a bad experience with them on my N/A. I had their DF which at the time was supposed to be their best clutch. It lasted about 5,000 miles on a mildly modded N/A before it took a crap. I then switched to a RPS stage 3 and it held the power much better...

Well the car was designed in the 80's, the technology wasn't up to par with what we're used to these days. And it's only 3 cables on the automatics, 2 cables for 5spds :)

I haven't been running any of the stock manifold supports for the past few years. The trick for me was brand new studs, torqued in properly with some loctite. Haven't had any problems with exhaust leaks or the nuts backing out.

Kind of an old pic but it's the best I could find. Wrapping that upper intercooler pipe kept some of the exhaust heat out, and wrapping the downpipe reduced heat in the engine bay considerably.