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Yeah, I need to get more of the black paste lube we used to have. That stuff worked great. We got this blue stuff now, it's like a thick gel... our tire supplier recommended it. I don't really like it though. I figured the thick brake grease I was using would be about the thickest stuff that I...

Yeah, all wheels have that groove as far as I've seen. The tires are stock size, 225/50-16. Not sure what the problem is, but the tires fit fine on another set of wheels I have here. They're 16x7.5 sport edition F5's +45 offset. I'm considering using 20 or 25mm H&R spacers to put those on.

That's why I was asking. I prefer to run tires that are spec for the rim width for best grip. No offense.

I hear they sell boost by the pound at Walmart in the deli case.... or was that bologna.... If you don't know how to turn the boost up on your car then you probably don't know enough about how a turbo works to even BE turning it up. Go to a book store and find a book called "Street...

How does it drive with the low offset wheels on there? Do they screw with the steering feel or cause alot of kickback on rough roads when you hit the brakes hard? I was looking at 16x8" +0 wheels but I remember when I went from +52 to +40 wheels on my mazda it screwed up the steering feel under...

The ether blew the tire out against the rim just fine, but it won't push it over the lip onto the actual bead area on the wheel. I only tried it with the ether on my own tires, which were Kumho Ecsta MX's. Maybe those are too stiff to do it that way or something, or maybe I just need to use more...

I've been trying for hours, I even tried 2 different kinds of tires. When I put air in, they air up, but the bead won't seat. It looks like the rims have these weird indentations machined around the outer bead area and the tire is hanging up on them and won't slide into place. I've never seen...

Those washers in the pics are the thin ones that are permanently attached to the bolts. The two thick spacers aren't in any of my pics. I did have them, but they're in my parts bin now. I might try to get a better final pic, I took that one with my cell phone with the car on the ground. If I...

Wait a minute... a few posts back you said you'd have to change the fuel rail to get rid of the damper (which you don't). The 1JZ damper doesn't go on the fuel rail at all. It goes on the adapter on the side of the engine block under the manifold. If you're trying to put it on the fuel rail you...

Yeah, I know. The Ford part has the bearing located closer to the mounting tabs than the original supra part, so by leaving out those two spacers you are causing the bearing carrier to move upward by about 1/4", which corrects the difference almost perfectly. I also accounted for the fact that...

I matchmarked the shaft and everything is lined up, as Poodles said, no need to balance. I also replaced the rear u-joint. So simple if you use the correct puller. So aggravating if you try to use a normal u-joint C-press tool.

The reason for those tabs on the #1 washer is that the fuel flows between the ID of the washer and the bolt and if you use a smaller washer you'll block off the fuel flow. Someone else did that a while back and there was a thread about that cause their car wouldn't run. You need that tabbed...

So you are setting the wideband to output a richer narrowband output to fool the ECU into going leaner than normal at cruise?

No driving impression yet, I still have a few weeks of work on the car before it's ready to drive. I will repost once I drive it, but I don't forecast any problems.

My car needed a driveshaft carrier bearing, the rubber was shot in mine. I asked around and it seemed the only solution was to buy one from Toyota, or go to a one-piece driveshaft, either way... $200+. Someone had posted that they used a carrier bearing from a Ford Ranger (no mention of the...

It works, I just made a thread detailing what you need to do, it's very easy and only cost me $50 total. Could have shopped around on the bearing and done it for less. The bearing I used was for a 92 Ranger 3.0L.

Thanks for all the info. I did check rockauto, they had the best price. They're catalog was what was throwing me off though, they list much cheaper ones for the 89-92, less than half the price. I'll be ordering that one. It was odd, I checked all of the balljoints with the lower control arms...

Found my upper balljoint on the D/S is shot on my 87'... great, whatever, just what I need. I found a control arm new for $70 but they say it only fits 89-92. Almost every other website I check says 86.5-92 use the same upper arms. The only thing is they all want $200+ for them. I checked the...

From what I've read, yeah that's about it. The springs come in a million different sizes, so you have to measure and figure out what free length you need. I'm estimating it to be around 8-10 inches though. You also need to figure out your rates, which can be easy or complicated, depending on...

I'm not planning on using stock springs, I'd be using 2.5" ID racing springs that are designed for coilovers. Eibach and Hypercoil make some of the best quality springs out there. Only downside I see so far is the price. The shocks are about $370 a set, the coils are $60 each, and the bilstein...