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I rebuilt my whole stock driveshaft, joints, bearing and all and had it professionally rebalanced for $190. Those stock joints are a PAIN to remove if you don't follow the TSRM instructions though. I tried doing them the way I do domestic joints and it wasn't happening. Got the puller set out...

Why the rear brakes though? Just looks? They're already vented and fairly large as far as rear brakes go, so I really doubt they're overheating. They only do about 20% of the braking in stock configuration. You reduced the work they're doing by increasing your front bias with those huge cobra...

No, I put it back in already, you can't really see the welds with it in there. There's a part with two flat spots for a 14mm wrench to hold onto while you tighten the 12mm locknut on the adjustment rod. I welded the part with the flat spots to the big round thing.

I don't think the problem with the stock brakes is only that the rotors are a little too small, but also that you can't get any good brake pads for the stock calipers, or even the previa calipers. People underestimate the role the brake pads play in heat capacity and stopping power. I was ready...

How much correction do you have on your high map with the low at zero?

Nope,the bushings are like new. It was this thing that's on the end of the pushrod, between the locknut and the fork that goes on the pedal. This is the exact one, I bought it from RockAuto. I was just looking, and not all of the years/models had this thing. The original aisin one that I...

My clutch pedal is creaking, loud. I took it apart, and found that the vibration isolator that's on the linkage rod between the pedal and the master cylinder is what's creaking. I just replaced it (came with the new master cylinder), and it's worked fine for about two months now. It looks like...

Exactly.... Look at the 2011 Ford Fiesta vs the Mazda 2. Basically the same chassis (different engines though, oddly), but Ford managed to stick an extra 200 to 300 pounds of crap onto the car (depending on trim level). With a car that small... where do they even find a place to stick that much...

So, guesstimating 74% low and 75% high for throttle points is probably the closest I'm going to get. I just want to prevent the AFC from switching maps while in closed loop (as best I can), for the best fuel economy and driveability. If it the AFC is changing the correction values too much in...

Does anyone know what exact condition triggers the 1JZ ECU to switch to open loop mode? I'm looking for something like the exact TPS percentage where it switches or something. I'm assuming it uses the TPS signal to trigger it, maybe it uses a certain MAP reading, or a calculated load value...

It's probably not the sensors themselves, check the wiring first. If the wiring is OK, then buy one sensor and try it in both positions (you don't have to screw it into the block to test it, just plug it in) and see which position makes the light stay away after you reset the ECU. Don't drive...

The problem is, as engine efficiency went up, so did safety standards, and as a result... curb weight. The CRX HF got ~50mpg, but it only had to pull around 1,713 (!) pounds. Even a tiny Mazda 2, Yaris hatchback, or Prius has to pull around 600 pounds more (actually, 1,200 more in the case of...

Stock w/ stock twins.

Update on this... my boost went down to 10psi when the temps went up to about 60 degrees. So I got the MBC back out that I took off the car and put it on, same problem again. So I took a hammer and a small punch and closed the bleed hole from 1/16" down to a little larger than a pinhole. Now the...

Is it breaking up in the other gears, or no? Fuel restriction isn't out of the question, but if you have proper fuel pressure while the problem is happening then that rules out a restriction. I'm not sure if you checked the pressure, or if you have a gauge to do that, but a quick and cheap way...

My idle is a little rough cause of bad injectors (they leak a little bit) already, maybe I'll try it again after I get some different injectors in. The car idles at ~500 with the wire disconnected though, it definitely had an effect on the idle speed. Just barely runs. I'm pretty sure I did...

I assume by idling you mean sitting still. What's causing the cut out at 3K? It has to be either a spark, fuel, or compression problem.... so start eliminating what it's not if you don't know what it IS. Check compression, low compression could indicate a slipped timing belt. Fuel pressure ok...

Check the rear lower ball joints that are on the outside of the rear lower lateral links. They look like a bushing, but are actually ball joints. If one of those is bad it will cause the rear to steer the car when you hit the brakes. Both of mine were bad and were very hard to check, I found...

I covered my rear window trim in electrical tape. Looks fine to me. I had to use two pieces on the top and bottom to make the width. If I could find some extra wide electrical tape that would be much better. I even overlapped it so that the edge of the tape touches the glass to seal the junk out...

No such luck... The caliper bracket almost fits, maybe with some bolt hole elongation it would bolt up. The problem is the rotor doesn't fit. Our hub OD is too large. Not the center part that centers the wheels, but the outside of the hub itself that's behind the rotor hats. You'd have to have...