What are some of the details behind this failure?
This is the original motor that came in my 91. It has 160k miles on everything except the bearings. All other aspects of the motor are stock. Valve train, rod bolts, etc...
Thanks for the input Dan.
Greetings all,
Soon I will be in the world of a Standalone and one of the things I hope to get is more revs. I'd like to see another thousand.
Here are applicable mods:
-Extrude Honed Intake Manifold
-Fidanza FW
-JT62 Turbo
-3.75" Elbow w/3" Exhaust the rest of the way
-Fresh Bottom...
Colder air = Higher air Density
Higher air Density = More air in Cylinder
More air in Cylinder = Leaner Condition
Leaner Condition = MOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRR POWUHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!
Unfortunately, that also means fuel cut for some.
:)
The USDM Glass is a different shape so it's not a drop in type deal. I have considered looking in to having glass cut; but, haven't got there yet. It annoys me enough that I can't leave it like this. ;)
Thanks Matt. Yep, your pics were a great reference. These mirrors are amazingly sturdy!
Thanks man! It has certainly come a long way and is by no means finished. I don't think it ever will be! :)
No worries on reviving the thread. If anyone gets annoyed, the deserve a punch in the neck! ;)
My advice is do as much of the work yourself as you can, what you can't do, make sure...
I have only been around one engine that had JE's and piston slap. It ran fine for about 7k miles. The engine has since been removed from the car (not problem related) and now sits on an engine stand waiting to go in my car. ;)
That's not really helpful, I know; but, that's all I got.
As...
OP: What you're seeing is normal for a piggyback because the TCCS still controls closed loop operation and decides when to switch in to open loop. The TCCS will allow you to boost as much as 5 psi (maybe higher) before switching to open loop. This is the what it's programmed to do.
A prime...
Piston slap is a common tale with JE's. I can't comment on the clearances related to those claims; but, I've heard that at least 8.67 times in my life. ;)
You'll need the right wheel/offset/spacer combo to make that work. (not all three; but, you get my drift...) Rolling the fenders will make that a little easier also.
Something doesn't add up with 275's breaking loose at 6psi; but, that's why I asked about his tire condition.
I hope he doesn't take offense because I'm from Chalmette and for all I know, he and I could be cousins! :biglaugh:
If the tires are warm, ambient temp is ~60*, road completely dry and level, then my sweet spot is 2nd gear 42 mph. I hit redline QUICK and grab third for the third gear flyby! :biglaugh:
OP: Your issue sounds normal. Time for some softer tread.
Just for conversation sake... 275 Riken Raptors here. They have around 5k miles on them and they hold ~420 whp really well. Anything around 50* is a problem till third tho.
A light wastegate spring will add to lag time. I don't know what your boost target is; but, with that size of turbo, a 14psi wastegate would be a minimum.
It most certainly does serve a purpose to a topless supra. ;)
I also saw a picture of a 50+mph T-Bone impact to a driver's side front fender and the only thing that saved the engine from getting squished was the strut bar.
Meh...no worries. I know you're not being a turd. :)
There are two main reasons to upgrade to an AFPR.
1. Bypass the J-Tube to prevent cavitation when utilizing a High Flow Pump such as a Walbro 255.
2. Adjustability for tuning.
A few dynos ago, I got 5 extra HP and TQ with a fuel pressure...
It is normal to see Vf fluctuations. The ECU manages closed loop operation and will keep your engine safe in that condition.
It is NOT recommended to use Vf values for tuning open loop operations.
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