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What brand oil stat failed on you, Mike?

What will be the management? I thought about boosting mine; but, the last thing I need is another project. After all...I do own an MK3 and that's project enough! :)

Yes. Last week, I dyno'd 384hp/387tq at 17psi. That was with a tiny bit of water/meth up top. Since then, I've been running around at 18.5psi with the meth pumping at full. She's running good. Now...hopefully this weekend, I'll get my 1000's and AEM installed. Once that's done, off to...

Assuming that your TPS is good and set properly, verify the Maft's connections. If you're familiar with a DVM, you can check the voltage at the ECU to rule out a failure in the Translator. Mine reads .48v pedal up and 3.48 pedal down. Really, there are too many variables to continue guessing...

I have an 87 4Runner with a 22RE. I can provide any needed measurements.

Poop. At that price anyway...

Once, after going sideways and causing the neighboring camaro to jump a curb getting out of my way, I bought a honda.

My money is on the belt being loose enough to jump some teeth.

^That's a golden nugget comment right there! :biglaugh:

ARP Head studs change very little during the first heat cycles.(retorque still necessary) ARP Head Bolts and Stock Head Bolts can vary quite a bit though.

The purpose of the oil thermostat is to bring the oil up to operating temperature quicker. This is slightly more important because most of the time people install larger oil coolers, oil filters, etc... when performing Jdub's mod. This increases the car's oil capacity. Naturally, it will take...

Correct. There is no "engine" break-in that needs to be performed. However...the head bolts/studs will need to be retorqued after five heat cycles.

Go back through the Maft's settings and make sure that they are correct. Have you done any firmware upgrades to the pro recently?

Did you use a jumper as pointed out in the link? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20

Just trying to help out... What you're seeing is the opposite of what my buddy's results were. After we put his front mount and 2.5" IC piping in, he went from 10 psi to 12.

Now that's dang funny right there! I totally LOL'd! :D What I would do is put the front up in the air and with the key in the 'On' position, start moving wires around near the headlight and see if you can figure out what wires and/or harness causes it to happen.

Sadly...I know. Pre-race posts can have a tendency to backfire. It is fun to get predictions though! ;) Actually, I lined up another run with the Porsche. As soon as my car gets back from the AEM Tuning, it's on. GoPro running this time! As far as the R8 goes...I wonder if a $1k wager will...

That's kind of funny actually... :) Does this happen if you're parked or only when driving?

Your problem description matches this thread to a 'T'. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?142005-Hissing-noise-when-brake-pedal-pressed&highlight=brake

After ~7 years, my old IC (Carter) had multiple holes in it. Rocks and road debris takes a toll on IC's. Did you pressure test yours before it was installed?