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the injectors can be heard from the engine bay - they tick, but I'm fairly certain they're not the source of my issue. I'd think the noise would be the loudest when looking under the hood. It's not, it is most obvious with the hood closed and from the side of the car.

Verified torqued to spec. Also, shrink fit onto the crank as per ATI.

coming this weekend i suppose. some additional info - this noise can't be heard from inside the car.

So I've recently finished the complete rebuild of the 7M in my car. Among some of the other issues (specifically, camshaft seals that won't seal), the car has a rattle/tick at idle. The following describes the characteristics of the noise Sounds similar to clutch chatter from a lightweight...

I recently re-plumbed my rail to a dual feed, single return configuration. My return location uses the cold start injector port. I'm currently tuning the car, and decided to take a peek at the plugs. All looked great, with the exception of #5, which showed evidence of an overly lean mixture...

huh? 100c is a great temperature for normal driving, it ensures that all moisture is eliminated from the oil.

Well that makes it easy then, as that's what my daily runs. Thanks IJ.

500-600 whp is what I'm aiming for. I would have gone tighter on clearances if this was going to be more of a daily driver, but that's not the case.

pb, sn, cu indicate bearing wear. how well did you clean the old oil out of your engine? High sodium suggests not that well (Na is generally coolant-related). si could be dirt, but may also be from the assembly lube. Do an analysis on the next change and see if the wear metals and Na drop...

Hoping somebody could lend their $.02 on oil weight. My bottom end was built fairly loose, with the clearance of my mains at .0024" and rods at .0021". I've got a 15W50 break-in oil in the car right now (first start-up is going to be tonight), but wondering what I should switch to after the...

Used aluminum bar, mocked the mounts up with cardboard, and went from there.

40 wt. as in SAE grade (i.e. 5W40). BMW specifies Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W60 for M cars, the same stuff that josbeat is using.

I think this engine might develop enough heat...oil temp on my M3 maxes out at 270F on track (S65 V8). The 7M will likely run considerably hotter. FWIW, the 10W60 TWS shears to 40 wt. and then stabilizes relatively quickly after entering the engine. I was actually consuming .5 quart per...

considered going to your local machine shop and have them make something for you? All you really need is a 3/4 thick bar of aluminum, approx. 3.5" wide and 5" long. Machine it into a y-shape to connect between the existing top alternator mounts.

Why is this surprising? I had a head rebuilt with new valves, and if I didn't have 3 heads worth of spare shims, I'd have been needing close to this many as well as I'm picky about my tolerances.

the change from batch to sequential is easy. turn on the appropriate injectors, and double the values in the fuel map.

Justin nenni tuned 7mgte 550cc injectors, batch fire stock cams 40 psi base pressure, walbro 255 60 trim ct26 3 bar map gm iat dh61 and is300 coils stock cams

I've got a similar set-up, just on batch fire and (at the time of the tune), 550cc injectors, and 3 bar map. Load this map, scale the injectors and map sensor (base fp 40 psi), and see how she goes.

give an industrial sandblaster a try, should knock anything and everything out of there. make sure you clean it well before reinstalling though.

i've pulled helicoiled metric studs out of heads in the past but never the 7/16" ones, so I'm not risking it this time and going straight for the big ones. already have a good stash of 7/16 studs, just need to get a few more inserts.