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yes, I did. I'll update the thread in the next few days.

have a wiseco/eagle build that sounds exactly the same. built to wiseco-recommended specs. thought there was an issue with mine, but after this thread, I'm not so concerned.

I'd try source a known good head that hasn't been sitting on a blown motor for the last 5 years. Lots of things can hide on these heads like pitting and cracking in the combustion chamber. if you're going for high power, have the head dye penetrant checked.

start with finding a donor car and cutting the floor out to transplant into yours. It will be much cleaner and should minimize bodyshop costs (aside from the welding that is)

Could somebody with a crank timing pulley that is not in their car and a reasonably accurate set of vernier calipers measure the OD of the front pulley outer/front flange? I'm looking to fab a weld-on crank trigger wheel and I don't want to deal with the downtime associated with disassembling...

Digikey, or the Honeywell website. Have not bought yet, but this should work: http://sensing.honeywell.com/3050S10-Variable-Reluctance-Speed-Sensors

That would be awesome if you could. I'll pm you my email. Found the vr sensor too, so thanks on both counts. Adam

I'll ask again...did you have any spare trigger wheels left? If not, what is the od, id, and thickness of the one you fabbed? My car is a long way away and I'd rather not have to make the trip out to it to measure everything. Thanks!

And the crank...and VR or Hall effect?

fucking Canadians.

Hey, enraged and I sent you pms about your trigger wheel - any interest in selling your extras? If yes, you have 2 buyers.

Front, not rear.

How's the fender clearance with a 245? Think you could squeeze a 255? Obviously offset and camber dependent, but I'm just trying to get a rough understanding. Thanks!

Just a PSA and a bump from the dead - I upgraded to the DH61 igniter in accordance with this thread, as well as installing is300 coils a while back. If this igniter and is300 coils are used with an AEM, you need to modify the dwell settings to get the coils operating in their happy place. If...

Dwell sorted. Sure does make the car rev smoother throughout the range. I think my default settings had he dwell at around 2 ms, so there is a noticeable improvement. It is tough to tell from pulls on the road, but I haven't noticed he wot miss that was there on the dyno. As far as the idle...

That's the project for tomorrow. Also, I think the winter project for the car is a crank trigger wheel unless I can find a cps that actually works. I'm sick of the idle misfire that seems to plague many of these cars.

got new plugs and new injectors. gapped the plugs to .028 and that seems to have cleared up the misfire (as much as I can tell driving the car on the road). Logged my coil dwell and it seems to taper off into the 2ms range as the revs climb - going to try clean this up and see if I can hit low...

I don't have photos as my intercooler hangs too low for me to put on the shield, but it attaches to a bracket that sits near the intersection of the bumper and lip.

Possible coolant leak.

shoot for the top end of spec with your clearances - they will close as the valve seat wears, so theoretically, shooting for the top will help you minimize the number of times you have to re-shim.