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Hey man, how's that black supra you got from me running? Did you end up rebuilding the trans?

How do the redlines compare? Or the real-world safe-revving rpms rather.

I was just wondering why so many people like the 1J better than the 2J motor. It's half a liter smaller, so why would it be better? Thanks.

Isn't there a HUGE disadvantage going 1J though, when you need parts and have to source them from Japan? Or is that not a problem? Wouldn't 2J be better?

Not a ton, but I was curious if anyone had gotten close to 230 at the wheels with the stock NA 2JZ. Really what I want to know is, how well does this motor respond to the standard bolt-ons. Exhaust, Intake, Header (if there is one available). Anyone know? I was searching on the other supra...

My 92 SC300 has the 2JZ n/a motor in it. Does this motor have any potential in n/a form? What about with a 75 shot of nitrous?

:icon_razz

I vote for green print

The bird cage light means low coolant in the overflow tank, or if you check it and it's full, the sensor is bad. Clean it or replace it if that doesn't make the light go away.

I thought that I had killed mine too because I did the same thing with some heavy duty throttle body cleaner. Turns out though, after resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for a few minutes, then restarting the car and playing with the gas pedal a few times, driving it around the block a...

OMG ROFL!!! Thanks for that diagram! Apparently my vacuum hoses on my thermostat are reversed! The inner nipple is connected to the canister, and the outer one to the junction thing under the upper IC pipe. Does it matter?

I have a similar problem with mine, one of the bushings is half gone, and I tried tightening the cables with the nuts, but its no use. Still loose. I'd like to hear an answer on this one too.

Only when I had my initial problems with the sputtering upon hitting the gas pedal. See above explanation. There was a code at first, but it disappeared as soon as I got the bugs worked out and its running good now, or so it seems. BTW, Shaeff, your "check codes" link is dead for some reason.

Not bo beat you up, but...If you run that Lexus AFM with stock injectors, you will run LEAN, which is VERY BAD. You are running the risk of detonation, and losing your motor. Basically, you HAVE to get 550's in there as soon as possible or you may destroy your motor very quickly. So get those...

If i had, wouldn't it be running horribly now or something to that effect? It seems to be running good. Idles good, accelerates smoothly, turbo spools fine. What would the car start doing if that sensor were destroyed?

I dont think I did. some lacquer thinner splashed on the prongs for the black sensor on the maf unit, but evaporated right away. Any harm in spraying throttle body cleaner along the inside of the unit?

I was wondering if you vent the stock BOV to the atmosphere, would you hear it, would it sound decent, and if you plug the vacuum line to the intake manifold, would that allow it to function ok? Would this cause problems, or is it a good thing to do? Thanks.

Yeah so I installed the Apex-i intake this afternoon, and cleaned the hell out of everything in there, including the maf sensor thing. Went through about a pint of lacquer thinner, a couple rolls of paper towels, and a few dozen Q-tips. Looks like new now. When I started the car up, it...

I have an 88 turbo automatic (stock with apexi intake), and the boost gauge on the dash doesn't seem to go above 2 notches above zero. It never goes anywhere near the +8 at the top of the scale. Is this normal? Is it the gauge or something wrong with my car? Thanks.

LMAO :biglaugh: Glad I'm not the only one who thinks it looks like a bird cage.