Well that's what codes 41 and 51 are pointing at, all you need is a ohm meter to set it according to the TSRM. I'd say check it, set it, then you would know.
You ought to be able to feel at the tailpipe if you are getting flow thru the cat.
I think you would really have to have timing off to get the header to glow read.
Stock header or tube type?
Have you checked the timing with a light and the jumper wire?
I believe the tape helps seal the molding. Use new moldings if possible, my original ones the clips and the metal piece molded in started to rust and bubble on the outside. You could push on the bubbles and hear and feel rust grinding.
If you blew out those fuses them you probably blew out something else. Check the wires behind the cd player very easy to cut, nick a wire with the sharp edges on some of those players.
Could be, not resurfacing the flywheel, did you check for endplay at the pedal, could just be adjustment if you never checked. Maybe too late for the disk, could be glazed.
If you played with the TPS you should reset it according to the TSRM. There is also checks, easy to do with an ohm meter for the AFM and alot of other related things. Also check your wires for chewed sections, mice like to build nest in the spark plug galley. There's several things you can check...
Make sure you rotate the motor a couple of revolutions by hand after you install the new belt and check your marks again, a lot of guys forget that step, it could save you a lot of time.
There are some but mostly wired with a Maft-Pro or something like that. If your're going that route you should have a way to adjust the AFR's.
Check on line for Inovate O-2 to see what you need and have to do.
Should have posted in the NA section, you would have gotten a little more support, even then you still get the "go turbo" responces. I understand what you are saying, most turbo guys won't. Go for it :)
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