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Wait till you build a few more engines and have a couple 10mm helicoils (or Recoils) pull right out of the head before you even hit 15 ft/lbs, then you guys will understand why it is an upgrade. :icon_wink The problem from what I can tell is that the head on a 7m doesn't have any coolant...

My thoughts exactly. I said something to that effect but I deleted it because I didn't want to sound rude. Why would any machine shop feel that it's ok to give parts back to a customer that are machined or drilled crooked or off center, the whole point of taking parts to a machine shop is for...

Yeah, but if he measured .015mm, that is 0.0005". Are you sure you don't have mm and inch mixed up weezl? EDIT: you got it!

.017" and .019" is pretty normal. I would have the bore checked, factory rings are not file fit iirc. Are you using a piston to push the ring into the bore and make sure it's straight? Usually we take an old piston with just an old 2nd ring on it, and use that to push the ring down in...

Add a few percent with the "Fuel Trim Percentage" and then click "Re-Adajust Map", that will richen up the whole map, and get you close to the right mixture quickly. Cold crank is only meant to do something like a cold start injector does. Use the fuel trim to get the mixture in the ballpark...

That's it, set it to locked. Fixed, locked, it's all the same LOL

If the ring gap is that small with stock rings, then the bore is probably too small.

VICTORY! lol Set the timing by setting the timing to "fixed" on the Stinger, then use a timing light to set it to 10 degrees by adjusting the cps like you would on a stock ecu, then change it back to 10 deg btdc in the software. What does the afr look like, rich or lean?

My Netgear router kicks ass! I love it.

Happy easter to you too!

This kid LOVES this thread!

I left a good job at an electronics store to make a jump into a company that did automation and control and a lot of electrical. I was told I was going to be helping with installations in the field and get to use my electronics and electrical skills I was anxious to put to good use after going...

The SS Autochrome manifold barely works with stock studs, let alone larger diameter studs. :biglaugh: Usually at least 3 of the lower studs need to be made shorter, and one hole at each end is about 1/16" off center. As for the gasket not fitting on the 7/16 studs, I know the Fel Pro gasket...

It is a 12v ignition wire that is common to all the coils, if it was ground nothing would happen.

yes

Maybe this will clear things up: The resistor on the passenger side is for the fuel pump, basically allowing the ecu to lower the fuel pressure at idle. The resistor on the drivers side for a 7m-gte is for the fuel injectors, because the ecu can only handle low impedance fuel injectors...

The map sensor is at the firewall :icon_conf And I was talking about the injector resistor, not the fuel pump resistor. The origional poster is confused, he's getting the two resistors mixed up.

There is no injector resistor on a 1jz! If you want to install low impedance injectors you will need to cut the injector wires and install a 7m resistor. You can see the connector for it on the 7m in the very bottom right corner of the pic above. It is not part of the body wiring on a 7m, the...

Not bad dude! Anything over 400whp is deffinately going to be fun to drive. IMHO, 425whp under 20 psi is purfect for a street driven Supra.

For 7m you will just use 3 wires for the 3 coils. The other 3 outputs will not be used.